Road trip - Varkala, Ashtamudi & Valparai
TO BE FILLED
Route Taken
🚗 Bengalury → Salem → Madurai → Nagercoil → Varkala → Ashtamudi → Valparai → Bengaluru
Day-by-Day Itinerary
Day 1: The Long Drive South - Bangalore to Varkala
8 Oct 2026
Day 1 was all about the drive. The plan was simple: knock out the longest stretch on the first day, then spend the next three days doing nothing at all in Varkala. We left Bangalore at 5:30 am, and leaving on a weekday meant the city fell behind us quickly. The route was NH44 all the way down to Nagercoil, then north along the coast on NH66.
We reached Salem around 8:30 am and stopped for breakfast at Sri Sarvana Bhavan’s Aasai Dosai, a place someone had recommended. It was packed with locals and the service was quick, but the food did not live up to the hype. We had dosa, vada, idli and coffee, and it was all just average. We wrapped up in 20 minutes, and in hindsight we could have picked a better spot.
Lunch was at Hari’s Restaurant, just after Thirumangalam. The thali was good, the service was friendly and it was worth every rupee. NH44 was in excellent shape from Bangalore to Nagercoil, and the stretch near Madurai and Nagercoil had rows of windmills, shiny new giants next to the older, smaller ones. Kids and adults alike will want to stop and stare.
The trouble started at Nagercoil. A series of detours ate into our time, and by the time we joined NH66 the sun was already going down. Varkala was only 110 km away, yet the map said 3 hours. It was easy to see why: road patches under construction, then village after village where we could not cross 30 kmph. The road runs along the coast, but between the houses and the fading light we never saw the sea once.
It was fully dark and raining when we reached Varkala, after nearly 12 hours on the road. All of that was forgotten the moment we walked into our cottage at Nidra by Sarwaa. Sarwaa is better known as a cafe, but it also has a handful of cottages on the South Cliff overlooking the sea. Ours was tastefully designed and very comfortable, with a porch that has its own view of the sea and a spot to sit back and relax.
Dinner was at the Sarwaa cafe itself, with the sea breeze for company. The menu was limited, but everything we ordered tasted great, and so did the refreshing non-alcoholic coolers. The one letdown was the lack of good seafood. With full tummies and tired legs, we were all fast asleep by 11 pm.
Highlights
- ✅ Windmill farms along the way on NH44 between Madurai and Nagercoil
- ✅ Gliding roads on NH44
- ✅ Cottages at Nidra by Cafe Sarwaa
- ✅ Food at Cafe Sarwaa
- ❌ Breakfast at Aasai Dosai in Salem was mediocre
- ❌ The road from Nagercoil to Varkala
- ❌ Absence of sea food at Cafe Sarwaa
Photos
Sri Sarvana Bhavan's Aasai Dosai in Salem, packed with locals
Heading out of Bangalore at 5:30 am
NH44, smooth all the way to Nagercoil
Hari's Restaurant, just after Thirumangalam
A thali that was worth the price
Our cottage at Nidra by Sarwaa
Stuck at a railway crossing on the way
Windmill farms along NH44, old and new side by side
Accommodation
Nidra by Sarwaa
Sarwaa is best known as a cafe, but it also has a few cottages on the South Cliff overlooking the sea. Our cottage was tastefully designed and very comfortable, with a porch that has a private sea view and a relaxing seating area. After a 12 hour drive, it was exactly what we needed, and a perfect base for a relaxing holiday. I wouldn't recommend other stay options at Cafe Sarwaa if you don't opt for cottage or it is not available since, overall the place is more of a cafe than a hotel. The path to the cafe is a bit muddy that gets slushy in rains. Car parking available although the place gets crowded from morning to evening during season. To access the beach you have to take a long and steep staircase from the cliff, so while the view is great, the beach is not accessible without effort.
Places to Eat
Sri Sarvana Bhavan's Aasai Dosai
📍 Sri Sarvana Bhavan's Aasai Dosai, Salem
Recommended to us, and always packed with locals. Service is quick, but the food was only average. We had dosa, vada, idli and coffee, and none of it stood out. Fine if you are hungry and in a hurry, but there are likely better options in Salem.
Hari's Restaurant
A good lunch stop on the drive. The thali was tasty, the service was good and it was worth the price. Recommended.
Cafe Sarwaa
The cafe attached to Nidra by Sarwaa. The sea breeze and the view make dinner here special. The menu is limited, but everything we ordered tasted great, and the non-alcoholic coolers were refreshing. The only miss was seafood, which was not great.
Additional Considerations
Start early to beat Bangalore traffic. The shortest route on the map from Bangalore to Varkala might be same time however more tiring due to lower average speed. The route we took via Nagercoil was good and less tiring. Plan for the Nagercoil to Varkala stretch to take much longer than the 110 km suggests, because of detours, road work and slow villages, so try to cross it before dark
Day 2: Beach, Backwaters & a Mangrove Sunset
9 Oct 2026
Day 2 was meant to be slow: a bit of beach, good food and no rush. We started at the beach, which is reached by a set of steps that run down beside the Sarwaa cafe. The beach drops off steeply right from the shoreline and the water was rough. With storm warnings out, we stayed out of the water and just enjoyed the view. The horizon was clear, but the sun was already harsh and unforgiving. An earlier start would have made it far more pleasant to sit there. After 45 minutes, we gave up and headed to the cafe for breakfast.
The cafe opens at 8 am, and we were among the first to grab a table. Every dish was fresh, delicious and beautifully presented, a great way to start the day.
We had heard that a mangrove boat ride is a must in Varkala, so after breakfast we drove out to check the setup and book a slot. There are three: 6 am, 2:30 pm and 4:30 pm. 6 am would probably be the best but felt too early, and 2:30 pm would be hot, so we booked a country boat for 4:30 pm. There are plenty of operators to choose from. We booked with Mangrove View and paid around INR 1800 for a boat for 4 people.
With the slot booked, we went to Kaveri Elephant Park. It has a single elephant offering rides, and not much else. It was underwhelming and we would not recommend it, unless you have kids who would love an elephant ride. To its credit, the elephant was not in shackles and there was no seat mounted on its back, which is kinder to the animal but also makes the ride a bit riskier.
By then we were hungry and determined to have a local lunch with seafood. We found it at Holy Mackerel, a hole-in-the-wall place that is more of a small mess than a restaurant. We had the meals, fried mackerel and masala prawns with thick rice. Everything was fresh and tasty. If you want something upscale, this is not the place, but if you want honest local seafood, it is.
After a good lunch, we went back for a short afternoon nap, and at 3:30 pm sharp we left to meet our boat. The ride lasted 1.5 hours. We glided through natural tunnels formed by red mangroves, with their roots hanging down from above. We hopped off into the shallow water for a quick dip, and then watched a lovely sunset before heading back to the starting point.
With the sunset still in our eyes, we drove back to the hotel, ordered dinner to the room and called it an early night.
Highlights
- ✅ The mangrove boat ride at sunset, through tunnels of red mangroves
- ✅ Fresh, well-presented breakfast at Cafe Sarwaa
- ✅ Honest local seafood at Holy Mackerel
- ❌ Kaveri Elephant Park was underwhelming
- ❌ Hot afternoons meant only mornings and evenings were usable
- ❌ Rough water and storm warnings kept us out of the sea
Photos
The view from the beach, with a clear horizon
The steep beach below the cliff
Out on the water on our country boat
Eggs for breakfast at Cafe Sarwaa
Breakfast at Cafe Sarwaa, fresh and well presented
More from the breakfast table
The view from our cottage
The elephant at Kaveri Elephant Park
Kaveri Elephant Park's only elephant
Gliding through the mangroves
Mangrove tunnels from the boat
Red mangroves with their aerial roots
The mangrove backwaters from the viewpoint
Accommodation
Nidra by Sarwaa
📍 South Cliff, Varkala, Kerala
Day 2 was a full day at the cottage: a morning walk down to the beach, breakfast at the cafe next door, and an easy room-service dinner at the end. The cottage's sea view and the steps down to the beach make it a very convenient base.
Places to Eat
Cafe Sarwaa
📍 South Cliff, Varkala, Kerala
Breakfast here was the highlight of the morning. The cafe opens at 8 am, so go early to get a table. Every dish was fresh, delicious and nicely presented.
Holy Mackerel Seafood Restaurant
A small, no-frills local mess, not an upscale restaurant. We had the meals, fried mackerel and masala prawns with thick rice. The seafood was fresh and tasty, and it is a good place for an honest local lunch.
Additional Considerations
Go to the beach early, as the sun gets harsh quickly and the water is rough, especially with storm warnings. For the mangrove boat ride, the 6 am slot is probably the best, and 4:30 pm is a good choice for sunset. A country boat for 4 cost around INR 1800 with Mangrove View. Skip Kaveri Elephant Park unless you have kids who want an elephant ride.
Day 3: Beaches, a Lighthouse & a Rainy Cliff Walk
10 Oct 2026
With a relaxed Day 2 behind us, we were recharged and ready to explore more beaches. We were out by 6:30 am and headed first to Black Sand Beach, where early-morning surfing lessons were already underway. It was crowded, but the waves were nice, and the water felt approachable because the beach flattens out after the initial steep slope.
From there we visited Edava and Kappil beaches. On Kappil, the shore was littered with dead puffer fish. The fishermen warned us to stay well clear, as they are poisonous. After a short walk the beach turned lovely, and we spent a while playing in the water.
By then it was time for breakfast, and based on the reviews we picked Cafe Inda. The food looked and tasted scrumptious, and we highly recommend it. After lingering for an hour, we set out for a walk along the cliff to the local market on the North Cliff. The sun was at its fiercest by then, so we cut the walk short and promised to come back in the evening.
The afternoon heat made it a good time to stay in. The smart ones among us visited the Prana by Sarwaa spa. The massage cost INR 2500, and they called it authentic and fantastic. The rest of us had a light lunch in the room and spent a lazy afternoon listening to the waves crash right below the cliff.
Later we drove to Anjuthengu Lighthouse, next to Anjuthengu Fort. The fort has little to see, but the lighthouse is great, one of the narrowest we have been in. It opens at 3 pm, and we arrived around 3:30 pm to find ourselves the only visitors. By 4 pm the crowd had arrived, and so many people on the narrow staircase and the top was too much, but we were already on our way down by then.
Back at the cottage, we stocked up on chilled kombuchas and settled into the porch for a slow, peaceful sunset.
For dinner we walked down to the market along the cliff again and ate at Cafe del Mar. The food was okay. We went for pizza for the kids and local seafood for ourselves. By the time we finished, it was pouring, and we were caught in the rain with a fair bit of walking left to the car. A roadside seller got a quick sale on cheap raincoats, and we made it back about 30% drenched. A hot bath later, the tiredness caught up with us. That was Day 3. Next up was the one-hour drive to Ashtamudi.
Highlights
- ✅ Black Sand Beach in the morning, with surfing lessons in full swing
- ✅ Breakfast at Cafe Inda. Narrow streets and limited parking, so be careful if driving
- ✅ Anjuthengu Lighthouse at 3:30 pm was almost empty to explore by ourselves
- ✅ A slow sunset on the cottage porch, with chilled kombuchas
- ❌ Caught in torrential rain on the North Cliff market walk
- ❌ Hot afternoons meant we could only chill in the room and beat the heat
- ❌ Dead puffer fish on Kappil beach, which are poisonous, so watch your step
Photos
Black Sand Beach, early in the morning
Cafe Inda, our breakfast stop
Breakfast at Cafe Inda
More from the breakfast table at Cafe Inda
Breakfast spread at Cafe Inda
Pizza for the kids at Cafe del Mar
Dinner at Cafe del Mar
Local fish curry for dinner
The narrow staircase inside Anjuthengu Lighthouse
The view from the top of the lighthouse
At the top of the lighthouse
Anjuthengu Lighthouse
A boat being loaded on the beach
Walking the market along the North Cliff
More railway tracks on the way
Pancakes at Cafe Inda
Dead puffer fish on Kappil beach. Stay clear, they are poisonous
Our cheap raincoats from the roadside seller
The view from our room
Sunset from the cottage porch
Waffles at Cafe Inda
Accommodation
Nidra by Sarwaa
📍 South Cliff, Varkala, Kerala
Our third night at the cottage, and it was the perfect place to hide from the afternoon heat. We ended the day on the porch with a sunset and kombuchas, and went to sleep to the sound of waves crashing below the cliff. The Prana by Sarwaa spa is on the same property.
Places to Eat
Cafe Inda
Picked based on reviews, and it delivered. The breakfast was scrumptious, with waffles, pancakes and more, and we highly recommend it. Streets nearby are narrow and parking is limited, so be careful if driving.
Cafe del Mar
📍 North Cliff, Varkala, Kerala
A cliff-side restaurant with a multicuisine menu. The food was okay. We had pizza for the kids and local seafood for ourselves. Good for a cliff-side dinner, though not a standout.
Additional Considerations
Start the beach hopping early, as it gets very hot after late morning. Cafe Inda is on a narrow street with limited parking. The lighthouse opens at 3 pm and gets crowded by 4 pm, so go right at opening. Carry a raincoat or umbrella for the North Cliff market walk. Avoid the dead puffer fish on the shore.
Day 4: Surf Lessons & a Lakeside Evening - Varkala to Ashtamudi
11 Oct 2026
Day 4 was our drive to Ashtamudi. With the destination only an hour away, we squeezed in one more beach morning before leaving. We headed straight to Black Sand Beach, played for a bit, and then decided to try surfing. Our instructor Appu, from Moana Surfing Club, was very accommodating. We did not sign up for full-fledged lessons, but he made sure the kids got a real taste of surfing. He gave the two kids more than an hour for INR 2500 in total, and it was the highlight of the trip for them. If you are the adventurous type, we recommend trying it once. Para gliding was also on offer, but we skipped it. The operators seemed more focused on efficient execution than safety.
We had a relaxed breakfast at the cafe where we were staying and left for Ashtamudi around 12 pm. Our destination was The Leela Ashtamudi, a Raviz Hotel. We had been lucky to get a great deal that included breakfast and one major meal, and we were determined to make the most of it. The drive was smooth, and we arrived just before 2 pm. The Leela sits right by the lake and is beautiful.
We checked in and flopped onto the bed to shake off the beach and the drive. Some of us dozed off, while others buried themselves in a book. In the evening we caught the complimentary ferry ride the hotel runs for guests on Ashtamudi Lake. The ride was gentle and unhurried. We saw fishing boats coming home, fishing nets set along the shore, and lakeside properties, and a whole parliament of crows and a few egrets joined us on the ferry.
We explored the property for a while and then went to dinner. The hotel buffet had some great local dishes. That was the end of Day 4.
Highlights
- ✅ Surfing lesson with Appu from Moana Surfing Club, the kids' highlight of the trip
- ✅ Dinner buffet at The Leela Ashtamudi, with some great local dishes
- ✅ Evening ferry ride on the lake, gentle and relaxing, with crows and egrets along for the ride
- ✅ Impeccable car wash and interior cleaning by the hotel staff
- ❌ Para gliding operators seemed to focus on efficiency over safety, so we skipped it
Photos
A crow joins us on the ferry
Crows on the ferry
An egret on the ferry
The evening ferry ride on Ashtamudi Lake
Lake views from the hotel
The Leela Ashtamudi, a Raviz Hotel
Appu from Moana Surfing Club, our instructor
Getting ready for the surfing lesson
The kids try surfing
Another try on the board
The view of the lake from the hotel
Accommodation
The Leela Ashtamudi - A Raviz Hotel
📍 Ashtamudi Lake, Kollam, Kerala
A beautiful lakeside property with great views. We got a good deal that included breakfast and one major meal, and made the most of it. The complimentary evening ferry ride on the lake is a lovely touch, and the staff were very accommodating.
Places to Eat
The Leela Ashtamudi - Buffet Dinner
📍 The Leela Ashtamudi, A Raviz Hotel, Kollam, Kerala
The hotel buffet had some great local dishes, and it was a good way to end the day. Our deal included breakfast and one major meal, and taking a deal like this is a great idea, since there are limited options nearby.
Additional Considerations
I got my car cleaned by the valet staff. They were quite accommodating and charged INR 500 for an outside and inside cleaning job, which restored the hygiene after several beach rides. The ferry at the hotel is complimentary, and if you are hesitant to go out, taking a deal with one major meal is a great idea at the hotel.
Day 5: Sambranikodi Island & Munroe Island Backwaters
12 Oct 2026
Day 5 started with a quick breakfast by 8:30 am, and then we boarded the 9:30 am hotel ferry to Sambranikodi island. The water around the island is shallow, and you can usually get down and walk around, but our boat did not stop. We went around the island and came back. After spending some more time at the property, we stepped out for lunch at Meen by Chef Pillai.
The food, especially the signature dish Fish Nirvana, was fantastic. It is a fish curry made with coconut milk and no spice, which made it perfect for the kids, and paired with Kerala parotta it was a hearty lunch. We also recommend the prawn starters and the drinks.
After a heavy lunch, we went back to the room to book a boat ride around Munroe island. It was a 2.5 hour ride that ended with sunset. It starts by winding through the backwater canals of Munroe island’s villages, a very different scene from the mangrove backwaters. We kept ducking under low bridges until the canals opened out onto the wider Ashtamudi Lake again.
There were options for kayaking, motor boats and more, but we stuck with a country boat once again. Along the way you can climb the densely packed mangrove trees, step down into the water, take a coconut water break and watch a beautiful sunset. It was dark by the time our boat crept back to the town. We drove an hour back to the hotel, got ready for the night, and had another filling dinner. The next day was a long drive to Valparai, so we needed the rest.
Highlights
- ✅ Country boat ride through the Munroe island villages, ending at the mangroves and sunset
- ✅ Lunch at Meen by Chef Pillai, especially the Fish Nirvana
- ✅ Hotel ferry to Sambranikodi island in the morning
- ❌ Munroe island is a bit far from the hotel, about an hour, so you need to arrange transport
- ❌ The ferry did not stop at Sambranikodi island, so we could not walk in the shallows
Photos
Our country boat at Munroe island
Gliding through the Munroe island canals
Ducking under a low bridge
Refreshing drinks at Meen by Chef Pillai
Sambranikodi island from the ferry
Fish Nirvana and Kerala parotta at Meen
Sunset over the Ashtamudi backwaters
Meen by Chef Pillai
Rowing along the Munroe island canals
Rowing through the village backwaters
Climbing the mangrove trees
Accommodation
The Leela Ashtamudi - A Raviz Hotel
📍 Ashtamudi Lake, Kollam, Kerala
Our second night at the lakeside property. We spent the morning on the hotel ferry to Sambranikodi island and the rest of the day out exploring. It's a comfortable base for Munroe island, though the island is about an hour away.
Places to Eat
Meen by Chef Pillai
The signature dish, Fish Nirvana, was fantastic. It is a coconut milk fish curry with no spice, so it is perfect for kids, and it goes well with Kerala parotta. We also recommend the prawn starters and the drinks. Highly recommended.
The Leela Ashtamudi - Dinner
📍 The Leela Ashtamudi, A Raviz Hotel, Kollam, Kerala
A filling dinner at the hotel to end the day.
Additional Considerations
Munroe island is about an hour from the hotel, so arrange a car or autorickshaw. The country boat ride is 2.5 hours and ends with sunset, so start in the afternoon. Duck low when going under bridges. The hotel ferry to Sambranikodi island does not necessarily stop there. Try the Fish Nirvana at Meen, especially if you have kids who prefer less spice.
Day 6: Ghats, Waterfalls & the Sinnadorai Bungalows - Ashtamudi to Valparai
13 Oct 2026
Day 6 was a long drive from Ashtamudi to Valparai. The map told us the road would climb through the ghats of the Annamalai forest. The distance was only 280 km, but between traffic and non-stop highway construction, it would take a full 8 hours. We braced ourselves and left the hotel at 8:45 am after a heavy breakfast.
Along the way we stopped briefly at Athirapalli and Charpa waterfalls. Unfortunately, the season had been dry, and neither the reservoirs nor the waterfalls had enough water. The ghat drive through the Idamalayar reserve forest was still lovely. The road between Ashtamudi and Kochi was under construction, but once we turned off Kochi, the roads were great.
The biggest miss of the day was the Tamil Nadu e-pass. You must register for one in advance to cross the Malakkappara check post into Tamil Nadu. We had not, and there was no phone network, so we had to turn back a couple of kilometres to the Kerala check post to ask for Wi-Fi. Even then, we ran into issues with the OTP and the 250 KB size limit on the booking confirmation. You can register ahead of your trip at https://tnepass.tn.gov.in/, and keep a downloaded copy on your phone. Not doing so cost us an extra hour.
We finally reached Sinnadorai Bungalows in Valparai, and it was worth the effort. The property is a set of fantastic bungalows left behind by the British, set inside a tea estate. It was late in the evening, and leopards are known to roam the property, so we had an early dinner, which was fresh, local and fantastic, and retired to our rooms.
Our package included all meals at Sinnadorai, and we recommend that, as there is nothing to eat nearby. Valparai town is 8 km away, and 5 of those km are rough roads within the estate. This part of the trip was meant to be about winding down, with no long itinerary and just nature. That is exactly what we did the next day. For now, it was time to rest and sleep.
Highlights
- ✅ Ghat drive through the Idamalayar reserve forest after Kochi
- ✅ Sprawling green Sinnadorai property, a British-era bungalow in a tea estate
- ✅ Freshly prepared local dinner at Sinnadorai
- ❌ Athirapalli and Charpa waterfalls had very little water in the dry season
- ❌ We skipped lunch in Kochi, the last place on the route with decent options
- ❌ Ashtamudi to Kochi was under construction with heavy traffic, and 280 km took 8 hours
- ❌ We did not book the TN e-pass in advance, which caused a major hassle at the border
- ❌ The last 5 km inside Sinnadorai were rough and took 25 minutes each way
Photos
The porch of our bungalow at Sinnadorai
A dry reservoir along the ghat road
Our room at Sinnadorai Bungalows
Athirapalli waterfall with very little water
Accommodation
Sinnadorai Bungalows
Fantastic bungalows left behind by the British, on a sprawling tea estate. The setting is stunning and very quiet, and the food is fresh and local. Leopards are known to roam the property, so be careful after dark. Valparai town is 8 km away, and the last 5 km are bad roads.
Places to Eat
Sinnadorai Bungalows - Meals
📍 Sinnadorai Bungalows, Valparai, Tamil Nadu
Our package included all meals at the property, and we recommend taking it, as there is nothing to eat nearby. The dinner was fresh, local and fantastic.
Lunch in Kochi
We missed this, and we wish we had not. Kochi is the last place on the route with decent restaurants, so plan a lunch stop here.
Additional Considerations
Grab lunch at Kochi, as it is the last stop with decent options. You can also pick up local chips and condiments there. Do not forget to book the TN e-pass before you head into the ghat areas, where there is no network. Keep a downloaded copy of the confirmation on your phone, and keep it under 250 KB. Book a package with meals at Sinnadorai, as there is nothing to eat nearby. Leopards roam the property, so avoid walking out after dark.
Day 7:
14 Oct 2026
Highlights
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- ✅
- ✅
- ✅
- ❌
- ❌
Photos
Breakfast
Hetrochromia
Indian gaur skull
Ltm
Peacock
Stream sitting
Stream
Tea factory
Tea factory2
Tea factory3
