Road trip - Varkala, Ashtamudi & Valparai
An 8-day road trip from Bangalore down to the Kerala coast and back through the Western Ghats. Cliff-side beaches and surf lessons in Varkala, mangrove boat rides and a lakeside stay at Ashtamudi, and a quiet tea-estate bungalow in Valparai.
🗺️ View route on mapEight days, three very different slow-travel stops, and one very long road in between. We drove from Bangalore all the way down NH44 to Varkala, spent three days on its cliffs and beaches, moved on to the backwaters of Ashtamudi and Munroe island, then climbed through the Western Ghats to a British-era tea estate bungalow in Valparai. The drives were long, but each stop was the kind of place where you put the phone down, sit on the porch and do very little. We chased sunsets from boats and balconies, tried surfing, ate a lot of fish, and learned about the TN e-pass the hard way. Here is how it went, with everything we would do again and a few things we would skip.
Route Taken
Bangalore to Varkala - Recommended
🚗 Bengaluru → Salem → Madurai → Nagercoil → Varkala
Ashtamudi to Valparai - NH66 largely under construction
🚗 NH66 from Ashtamudi to Kochi → NH 544 Kochi to Angamaly → SH 21/354 from Angamaly to Valparai
Valparai to Bangalore - Recommended
🚗 Valparai → Pollachi → Coimbatore → Avinashi → Perundurai → Salem → Dharmapuri → Rayakottai → Hosur → Bangalore
Trip Stats
Total distance driven - Approx 1800 kms
Driving time - Approx 44 hours (accounting for traffic jams, ghat roads and some patches under construction)
Amount spent on diesel - Approx INR 14,000 with 3/4 tank remaining at the end
Day-by-Day Itinerary
Day 1: The Long Drive South - Bangalore to Varkala
8 Oct 2026
Day 1 was all about the drive. The plan was simple: knock out the longest stretch on the first day, then spend the next three days doing nothing at all in Varkala. We left Bangalore at 5:30 am, and leaving on a weekday meant the city fell behind us quickly. The route was NH44 all the way down to Nagercoil, then north along the coast on NH66.
We reached Salem around 8:30 am and stopped for breakfast at Sri Sarvana Bhavan’s Aasai Dosai. It was packed with locals and the service was quick, but the food was ok but wouldn’t call it outstanding. We had dosa, vada, idli and coffee, and it was all a good start for a breakfast. We wrapped up in 20 minutes, and were back on our way.
Lunch was at Hari’s Restaurant, just after Thirumangalam. The thali was good, the service was friendly and it was worth every rupee. NH44 was in excellent shape from Bangalore to Nagercoil, and the stretch near Madurai and Nagercoil had rows of windmills, shiny new giants next to the older, smaller ones. Kids and adults alike will want to stop and stare.
The trouble started at Nagercoil. A series of detours ate into our time, and by the time we joined NH66 the sun was already going down. Varkala was only 110 km away, yet the map said 3 hours. It was easy to see why: road patches under construction, then village after village where we could not cross 30 kmph. The road runs along the coast, but between the houses and the fading light we never saw the sea once.
It was fully dark and raining when we reached Varkala, after nearly 12 hours on the road. All of that was forgotten the moment we walked into our cottage at Nidra by Sarwaa. Sarwaa is better known as a cafe, but it also has a handful of cottages on the South Cliff overlooking the sea. Ours was tastefully designed and very comfortable, with a porch that has its own view of the sea and a spot to sit back and relax.
Dinner was at the Sarwaa cafe itself, with the sea breeze for company. The menu was limited, but everything we ordered tasted great, and so did the refreshing non-alcoholic coolers. The one letdown was the lack of good seafood. With full tummies and tired legs, we were all fast asleep by 11 pm.
Highlights
- ✅ Windmill farms along the way on NH44 between Madurai and Nagercoil
- ✅ Gliding roads on NH44
- ✅ Cottages at Nidra by Cafe Sarwaa
- ✅ Food at Cafe Sarwaa
- ❌ Breakfast at Aasai Dosai in Salem was ok-ok
- ❌ The road from Nagercoil to Varkala
- ❌ Absence of sea food at Cafe Sarwaa
Photos
Sri Sarvana Bhavan's Aasai Dosai in Salem, packed with locals
Heading out of Bangalore at 5:30 am
NH44, smooth all the way to Nagercoil
A thali that was worth the price
Our cottage at Nidra by Sarwaa
Stuck at a railway crossing on the way
Windmill farms along NH44, old and new side by side
Accommodation
Nidra by Sarwaa
Sarwaa is best known as a cafe, but it also has a few cottages on the South Cliff overlooking the sea. Our cottage was tastefully designed and very comfortable, with a porch that has a private sea view and a relaxing seating area. After a 12 hour drive, it was exactly what we needed. I would only recommend staying here if you can get a cottage, as the other rooms are not worth it. Overall, the place is more of a cafe than a hotel. The path to the cafe gets muddy and slushy in the rain. Car parking is available, but the place is crowded from morning to evening in season. The beach is reached by a long, steep staircase down the cliff, so the view is great, but the beach takes some effort to get to.
Places to Eat
Sri Sarvana Bhavan's Aasai Dosai
📍 Sri Sarvana Bhavan's Aasai Dosai, Salem
Recommended to us, and always packed with locals. Service is quick, but the food was only average. We had dosa, vada, idli and coffee, and none of it stood out. Fine if you are hungry and in a hurry, but there are likely better options in Salem.
Hari's Restaurant
A good lunch stop on the drive. The thali was tasty, the service was good and it was worth the price. Recommended.
Cafe Sarwaa
The cafe attached to Nidra by Sarwaa. It has a brilliant view of the sea and the horizon, and a cool breeze, which make the spot special. The menu is limited, but everything we ordered tasted great, and the non-alcoholic coolers were refreshing. The only miss was seafood, which was not great. Service varies with the crowd. During packed hours, they may allow only a single order per table, so that guests do not block the spots with a view with delayed orders. That seemed fairly reasonable.
Additional Considerations
Start early to beat the Bangalore traffic. The shortest route on the map from Bangalore to Varkala may take about the same time, but it is more tiring because of the lower average speed. The route we took via Nagercoil was good and less tiring. Plan for the Nagercoil to Varkala stretch to take much longer than the 110 km suggests, because of detours, road work and slow villages, so try to cross it before dark.
Day 2: Beach, Backwaters & a Mangrove Sunset
9 Oct 2026
Day 2 was meant to be slow: a bit of beach, good food and no rush. We started at the beach, which is reached by a set of steps that run down beside the Sarwaa cafe. The beach drops off steeply right from the shoreline and the water was rough. Although we did spot a jelly fish that came with an incoming wave and then was swept away again into the sea. With storm warnings out, we stayed out of the water and just enjoyed the view. The horizon was clear, but the sun was already harsh and unforgiving. An earlier start would have made it far more pleasant to sit there. After 45 minutes, we gave up and headed to the cafe for breakfast.
The cafe opens at 8 am, and we were among the first to grab a table. Every dish was fresh, delicious and beautifully presented, a great way to start the day.
We had heard that a mangrove boat ride is a must in Varkala, so after breakfast we drove out to check the setup and book a slot. There are three: 6 am, 2:30 pm and 4:30 pm. 6 am would probably be the best but felt too early, and 2:30 pm would be hot, so we booked a country boat for 4:30 pm. There are plenty of operators to choose from. We booked with Mangrove View (Vishnu on +919567990550) and paid around INR 2500 for a boat for 4 people.
With the slot booked, we went to Kaveri Elephant Park. It has a single elephant offering rides, and not much else. It was underwhelming and we would not recommend it, unless you have kids who would love an elephant ride. To its credit, the elephant was not in shackles and there was no seat mounted on its back, which is kinder to the animal but also makes the ride a bit riskier.
By then we were hungry and determined to have a local lunch with seafood. We found it at Holy Mackerel, a hole-in-the-wall place that is more of a small mess than a restaurant. We had the meals, fried mackerel and masala prawns with thick rice. Everything was fresh and tasty. If you want something upscale, this is not the place, but if you want honest local seafood, it is.
After a good lunch, we went back for a short afternoon nap, and at 3:30 pm sharp we left to meet our boat. The ride lasted 1.5 hours. We glided through natural tunnels formed by red mangroves, with their roots hanging down from above. We hopped off into the shallow water for a quick dip, and then watched a lovely sunset before heading back to the starting point.
With the sunset still in our eyes, we drove back to the hotel, ordered dinner to the room and called it an early night.
Highlights
- ✅ The mangrove boat ride at sunset, through tunnels of red mangroves
- ✅ Fresh, well-presented breakfast at Cafe Sarwaa
- ✅ Honest local seafood at Holy Mackerel
- ❌ Kaveri Elephant Park was underwhelming
- ❌ Hot afternoons meant only mornings and evenings were usable
- ❌ Rough water and storm warnings kept us out of the sea
Photos
The view from the beach, with waves lashing in the background
More beach clicks, all smiles
Out on the water on our country boat
Eggs for breakfast at Cafe Sarwaa
Breakfast at Cafe Sarwaa, fresh and well presented
The odd duck among us ordering quesadilla for breakfast
The view from our cottage
The elephant at Kaveri Elephant Park
Taking more pictures at Kaveri Elephant Park's elephant
Gliding through the mangroves
Mangrove view location of pick up. Ample car park
Tunnel of Red mangroves with their aerial roots
The mangrove backwaters from the viewpoint
Accommodation
Nidra by Sarwaa
Sarwaa is best known as a cafe, but it also has a few cottages on the South Cliff overlooking the sea. Our cottage was tastefully designed and very comfortable, with a porch that has a private sea view and a relaxing seating area. I would only recommend staying here if you can get a cottage, as the other rooms are not worth it. Overall, the place is more of a cafe than a hotel. The path to the cafe gets muddy and slushy in the rain. Car parking is available, but the place is crowded from morning to evening in season. The beach is reached by a long, steep staircase down the cliff, so the view is great, but the beach takes some effort to get to.
Places to Eat
Holy Mackerel Seafood Restaurant
📍 Holy Mackerel Seafood Restaurant, Varkala
A small, no-frills local mess, not an upscale restaurant. We had the meals, fried mackerel and masala prawns with thick rice. The seafood was fresh and tasty, and it is a good place for an honest local lunch. Do not expect a wide menu or a lot of variety. The seafood was reasonably priced, and there is a decent amount of seating.
Additional Considerations
Go to the beach early, as the sun gets harsh quickly and the water is rough, especially with storm warnings. For the mangrove boat ride, the 6 am slot is probably the best, and 4:30 pm is a good choice for sunset. A country boat for 4 cost around INR 1800 with Mangrove View. Skip Kaveri Elephant Park unless you have kids who want an elephant ride. Contact details for Mangrove View - Vishnu is +919567990550
Day 3: Beaches, a Lighthouse & a Rainy Cliff Walk
10 Oct 2026
With a relaxed Day 2 behind us, we were recharged and ready to explore more beaches. We were out by 6:30 am and headed first to Black Sand Beach, where early-morning surfing lessons were already underway. It was crowded, but the waves were nice, and the water felt approachable because the beach flattens out after the initial steep slope.
From there we visited Edava beach. On Edava beach, the shore was littered with dead puffer fish. The fishermen warned us to stay well clear, as they are poisonous. After a short walk the beach turned lovely, and we spent a while playing in the water.
By then it was time for breakfast, and based on the reviews we picked Cafe Inda. The food looked and tasted scrumptious, and we highly recommend it. After lingering for an hour, we set out for a walk along the cliff to the local market on the North Cliff. The sun was at its fiercest by then, so we cut the walk short and promised to come back in the evening.
The afternoon heat made it a good time to stay in. The smart ones among us visited the Prana by Sarwaa spa. The massage cost INR 2500, and they called it authentic and fantastic. The rest of us had a light lunch in the room and spent a lazy afternoon listening to the waves crash right below the cliff.
Later we drove to Anjuthengu Lighthouse, next to Anjuthengu Fort. The fort has little to see, but the lighthouse is great, one of the narrowest we have been in. It opens at 3 pm, and we arrived around 3:30 pm to find ourselves the only visitors. By 4 pm the crowd had arrived, and so many people on the narrow staircase and the top was too much, but we were already on our way down by then.
Back at the cottage, we stocked up on chilled kombuchas and settled into the porch for a slow, peaceful sunset.
For dinner we walked down to the market along the cliff again and ate at Cafe del Mar. The food was okay. We went for pizza for the kids and local seafood for ourselves. By the time we finished, it was pouring, and we were caught in the rain with a fair bit of walking left to the car. A roadside seller got a quick sale on cheap raincoats, and we made it back about 30% drenched. A hot bath later, the tiredness caught up with us. That was Day 3. Next up was the one-hour drive to Ashtamudi.
Highlights
- ✅ Black Sand Beach in the morning, with surfing lessons in full swing
- ✅ Breakfast at Cafe Inda. Narrow streets and limited parking, so be careful if driving
- ✅ Anjuthengu Lighthouse at 3:30 pm was almost empty to explore by ourselves
- ✅ A slow sunset on the cottage porch, with chilled kombuchas
- ❌ Caught in torrential rain on the North Cliff market walk
- ❌ Hot afternoons meant we could only chill in the room and beat the heat
- ❌ Dead puffer fish on Kappil beach, which are poisonous, so watch your step
Photos
Black Sand Beach, early in the morning
Cafe Inda, our breakfast stop
Breakfast at Cafe Inda
More from the breakfast table at Cafe Inda
Breakfast spread at Cafe Inda
Pizza for the kids at Cafe del Mar
Dinner at Cafe del Mar
Local fish curry for dinner
The narrow staircase inside Anjuthengu Lighthouse
The view from the top of the lighthouse
At the top of the lighthouse
Anjuthengu Lighthouse
A boat being loaded on the beach
Walking the market along the North Cliff
More railway tracks on the way
Pancakes at Cafe Inda
Dead puffer fish on Kappil beach. Stay clear, they are poisonous
Our cheap raincoats from the roadside seller
The view from our room
Sunset from the cottage porch
Waffles at Cafe Inda
Accommodation
Nidra by Sarwaa
Sarwaa is best known as a cafe, but it also has a few cottages on the South Cliff overlooking the sea. Our cottage was tastefully designed and very comfortable, with a porch that has a private sea view and a relaxing seating area. I would only recommend staying here if you can get a cottage, as the other rooms are not worth it. Overall, the place is more of a cafe than a hotel. The path to the cafe gets muddy and slushy in the rain. Car parking is available, but the place is crowded from morning to evening in season. The beach is reached by a long, steep staircase down the cliff, so the view is great, but the beach takes some effort to get to.
Places to Eat
Cafe Inda
Picked based on reviews, and it delivered. The breakfast was scrumptious and we highly recommend it. Streets nearby are narrow and parking is limited, so be careful if driving.
Cafe del Mar
A cliff-side restaurant with a multicuisine menu. The food was okay. We had pizza for the kids and local seafood for ourselves. Good for a cliff-side dinner, though not a standout. It may offer nice views during the day.
Additional Considerations
Start the beach hopping early, as it gets very hot after late morning. Cafe Inda is on a narrow street with limited parking. The lighthouse opens at 3 pm and gets crowded by 4 pm, so go right at opening. Carry a raincoat or umbrella for the North Cliff market walk. Avoid the dead puffer fish on the shore.
Day 4: Surf Lessons & a Lakeside Evening - Varkala to Ashtamudi
11 Oct 2026
Day 4 was our drive to Ashtamudi. With the destination only an hour away, we squeezed in one more beach morning before leaving. We headed straight to Black Sand Beach, played for a bit, and then decided to try surfing. Our instructor Appu, from Moana Surfing Club, was very accommodating. We did not sign up for full-fledged lessons, but he made sure the kids got a real taste of surfing. He gave the two kids more than an hour for INR 2500 in total, and it was the highlight of the trip for them. If you are the adventurous type, we recommend trying it once. Para gliding was also on offer, but we skipped it. The operators seemed more focused on efficient execution than safety.
We had a relaxed breakfast at the cafe where we were staying and left for Ashtamudi around 12 pm. Our destination was The Leela Ashtamudi, a Raviz Hotel. We had been lucky to get a great deal that included breakfast and one major meal, and we were determined to make the most of it. The drive was smooth, and we arrived just before 2 pm. The Leela sits right by the lake and is beautiful.
We checked in and flopped onto the bed to shake off the beach and the drive. Some of us dozed off, while others buried themselves in a book. In the evening we caught the complimentary ferry ride the hotel runs for guests on Ashtamudi Lake. The ride was gentle and unhurried. We saw fishing boats coming home, fishing nets set along the shore, and lakeside properties, and a whole parliament of crows and a few egrets joined us on the ferry.
We explored the property for a while and then went to dinner. The hotel buffet had some great local dishes. That was the end of Day 4.
Highlights
- ✅ Surfing lesson with Appu from Moana Surfing Club, the kids' highlight of the trip
- ✅ Dinner buffet at The Leela Ashtamudi, with some great local dishes
- ✅ Evening ferry ride on the lake, gentle and relaxing, with crows and egrets along for the ride
- ✅ Impeccable car wash and interior cleaning by the hotel staff
- ❌ Para gliding operators seemed to focus on efficiency over safety, so we skipped it
Photos
Appu from Moana Surfing Club, our instructor
Getting ready for the surfing lesson
The kids try surfing
Another try on the board
The Leela Ashtamudi, a Raviz Hotel
Eye catching property views as we wait for ferry to board
The view of the lake from the hotel
A crow joins us on the ferry
Crows on the ferry
An egret on the ferry
The evening ferry ride on Ashtamudi Lake
Accommodation
The Leela Ashtamudi - A Raviz Hotel
📍 The Leela Ashtamudi, A Raviz Hotel
A beautiful lakeside property with fantastic views and a few things to do on site, including the complimentary evening ferry ride on the lake. The property is generally quite expensive to book, but we got a good deal that included breakfast and one major meal, and made the most of it. The staff were very accommodating. Revathi and Sanjita at the front desk and Joel at the restaurant hosted us well and handled a lot of our requests.
Places to Eat
Keraleeyam
📍 The Leela Ashtamudi, A Raviz Hotel, Ashtamudi
The Keraleeyam restaurant buffet had some great local dishes, and it was a good way to end the day. The buffet was not the most extensive, but it had a great blend of local, North Indian and continental dishes, and a good selection of desserts.
Additional Considerations
I got my car cleaned by the valet staff. They were quite accommodating and charged INR 500 for an outside and inside cleaning job, which restored the hygiene after several beach rides. The ferry at the hotel is complimentary, and if you are hesitant to go out, taking a deal with one major meal is a great idea at the hotel.
Day 5: Sambranikodi Island & Munroe Island Backwaters
12 Oct 2026
Day 5 started with a quick breakfast by 8:30 am, and then we boarded the 9:30 am hotel ferry to Sambranikodi island. The water around the island is shallow, and you can usually get down and walk around, but our boat did not stop. We went around the island and came back. After spending some more time at the property, we stepped out for lunch at Meen by Chef Pillai.
The food, especially the signature dish Fish Nirvana, was fantastic. It is a fish curry made with coconut milk and no spice, which made it perfect for the kids, and paired with Kerala parotta it was a hearty lunch. We also recommend the prawn starters and the drinks.
After a heavy lunch, we went back to the room to book a boat ride around Munroe island. It was a 2.5 hour ride that ended with sunset. We paid INR 1500 for the boat ride (can contact Vishnu at +918075037016). It starts by winding through the backwater canals of Munroe island’s villages, a very different scene from the mangrove backwaters. We kept ducking under low bridges until the canals opened out onto the wider Ashtamudi Lake again.
There were options for kayaking, motor boats and more, but we stuck with a country boat once again. Along the way you can climb the densely packed mangrove trees, step down into the water, take a coconut water break and watch a beautiful sunset. It was dark by the time our boat crept back to the town. We drove an hour back to the hotel, got ready for the night, and had another filling dinner. The next day was a long drive to Valparai, so we needed the rest.
Highlights
- ✅ Country boat ride through the Munroe island villages, ending at the mangroves and sunset
- ✅ Lunch at Meen by Chef Pillai, especially the Fish Nirvana
- ✅ Hotel ferry to Sambranikodi island in the morning
- ❌ Munroe island is a bit far from the hotel, about an hour, so you need to arrange transport
- ❌ The ferry did not stop at Sambranikodi island, so we could not walk in the shallows
Photos
Sambranikodi island from the ferry
Morning ferry views of other fishing boats
Meen by Chef Pillai
Fish Nirvana and Kerala parotta at Meen
Refreshing drinks at Meen by Chef Pillai
Gliding through the Munroe island canals
The Mangrove bridge
Climbing the mangrove trees
Rowing along the Munroe island canals
Rowing through the backwaters
Returning to our drop off point after the sunset, navigating town canals
Accommodation
The Leela Ashtamudi - A Raviz Hotel
📍 The Leela Ashtamudi, A Raviz Hotel
A beautiful lakeside property with fantastic views and a few things to do on site, including the complimentary evening ferry ride on the lake. The property is generally quite expensive to book, but we got a good deal that included breakfast and one major meal, and made the most of it. The staff were very accommodating. Revathi and Sanjita at the front desk and Joel at the restaurant hosted us well and handled a lot of our requests.
Places to Eat
Meen by Chef Pillai
📍 Meen by Chef Pillai, Ashtamudi
The signature dish, Fish Nirvana, was fantastic. It is a coconut milk fish curry with no spice, so it is perfect for kids, and it goes well with Kerala parotta. We also recommend the prawn starters and the drinks. Highly recommended if you want to try some fine dining seafood.
Additional Considerations
Munroe island is about an hour from the hotel, so arrange a car or autorickshaw. The country boat ride is 2.5 hours and ends with sunset, so start in the afternoon. Duck low when going under bridges. The hotel ferry to Sambranikodi island does not necessarily stop there. Try the Fish Nirvana at Meen, especially if you have kids who prefer less spice. Thonikkaran Mundro Boating - Vishnu on +918075037016
Day 6: Ghats, Waterfalls & the Sinnadorai Bungalows - Ashtamudi to Valparai
13 Oct 2026
Day 6 was a long drive from Ashtamudi to Valparai. The map told us the road would climb through the ghats of the Annamalai forest. The distance was only 280 km, but between traffic and non-stop highway construction, it would take a full 8 hours. We braced ourselves and left the hotel at 8:45 am after a heavy breakfast.
Along the way we stopped briefly at Athirapalli and Charpa waterfalls. Unfortunately, the season had been dry, and neither the reservoirs nor the waterfalls had enough water. The ghat drive through the Idamalayar reserve forest was still lovely. The road between Ashtamudi and Kochi was under construction, but once we turned off Kochi, the roads were great.
The biggest miss of the day was the Tamil Nadu e-pass. You must register for one in advance to cross the Malakkappara check post into Tamil Nadu. We had not, and there was no phone network, so we had to turn back a couple of kilometres to the Kerala check post to ask for Wi-Fi. Even then, we ran into issues with the OTP and the 250 KB size limit on the booking confirmation. You can register ahead of your trip at https://tnepass.tn.gov.in/, and keep a downloaded copy on your phone. Not doing so cost us an extra hour.
We finally reached Sinnadorai Bungalows in Valparai, and it was worth the effort. The property is a set of fantastic bungalows left behind by the British, set inside a tea estate. It was late in the evening, and leopards are known to roam the property, so we had an early dinner, which was fresh, local and fantastic, and retired to our rooms.
Our package included all meals at Sinnadorai, and we recommend that, as there is nothing to eat nearby. Valparai town is 8 km away, and 5 of those km are rough roads within the estate. This part of the trip was meant to be about winding down, with no long itinerary and just nature. That is exactly what we did the next day. For now, it was time to rest and sleep.
Highlights
- ✅ Ghat drive through the Idamalayar reserve forest after Kochi
- ✅ Sprawling green Sinnadorai property, a British-era bungalow in a tea estate
- ✅ Freshly prepared local dinner at Sinnadorai
- ❌ Athirapalli and Charpa waterfalls had very little water in the dry season
- ❌ We skipped lunch in Kochi, the last place on the route with decent options
- ❌ Ashtamudi to Kochi was under construction with heavy traffic, and 280 km took 8 hours
- ❌ We did not book the TN e-pass in advance, which caused a major hassle at the border
- ❌ The last 5 km inside Sinnadorai were rough and took 25 minutes each way
Photos
Beautiful hues marking the end of the day
Charpa waterfall with very little water
A reservoir along the ghat road
The porch of our bungalow at Sinnadorai
Our room at Sinnadorai Bungalows
Accommodation
Sinnadorai Bungalows
📍 Sinna Dorai's Upper Paralai Bungalow, Valparai
Fantastic bungalows left behind by the British, on a sprawling tea estate. The setting is stunning and very quiet, with open views of valleys, tea estates and mountains. The cottages are large and comfortable, with all the modern amenities you need, and there are fantastic spaces to sit out in the open and relax. The drive to the property is a bit tricky, on broken roads, but it offers views of local wildlife and birds for nature enthusiasts. There are natural streams nearby that you can enjoy as well. The staff is very welcoming and takes care of most needs.
Places to Eat
Sinnadorai Bungalows
📍 Sinna Dorai's Upper Paralai Bungalow, Valparai
Our package included all meals at the property, and we recommend taking it, as there is nothing to eat nearby. All meals are freshly prepared and mix of local, south indian and sometimes continental cuisines. Each meal had 3 courses and they were mostly delicious. There are no alternate nearby options.
Additional Considerations
Grab lunch at Kochi, as it is the last stop with decent options. You can also pick up local chips and condiments there. Do not forget to book the TN e-pass before you head into the ghat areas, where there is no network. Keep a downloaded copy of the confirmation on your phone, and keep it under 250 KB. Book a package with meals at Sinnadorai, as there is nothing to eat nearby. Leopards roam the property, so avoid walking out after dark.
Day 7: Birds, Tea Trails & a Quiet Sunset - A Slow Day in Valparai
14 Oct 2026
Day 7 was our last day of pure relaxation. Valparai is known for Malabar hornbill sightings at this time of year, so we were up at 6 am and headed to Sholayar Dam to try our luck. The hornbill did not show up, and we had no specific spot beyond the general tip to try Sholayar Dam. We did see several other unusual birds on the way, and some good sightings of the lion-tailed macaque, another endangered species. We soaked up the morning sky and the sounds of the forest, and then returned for breakfast, another fresh and delicious spread.
Next on the plan was a short picnic by a stream. We dipped our feet in the gentle water between the tea estates, and the view was peaceful beyond words. After spending some time there, we drove back to the bungalow and spent the afternoon relaxing.
Later we visited Parry’s Tea Factory, which is open to visitors. Kids and adults alike learned how tea is made from scratch, from withering and drying to rolling and sorting into five grades. We did a bit of tea tasting and thanked our hosts. After that we headed into Valparai town to buy some spices.
We then visited Sinnadorai’s second property in the same plantation, called Rotti-kadai, where we were lucky to spot a whistling thrush’s nest. We had our evening tea there, watched the sunset, and returned to the cottage. After a still, quiet sunset and an early dinner, we settled in for some reading and got ready for the long drive back to Bangalore.
Highlights
- ✅ Bird sightings near Sholayar Dam, and the lion-tailed macaque
- ✅ A lazy afternoon at a stream in the middle of the tea estates
- ✅ Learning how tea is made at Parry's Tea Factory, with a tasting
- ✅ Beautiful sunsets, and evening tea at Rotti-kadai
- ✅ Delicious dinner from the bungalow kitchen
- ❌ We could not find a spot to see the Malabar hornbill
Photos
A fresh breakfast at Sinnadorai
A pair of eyes with heterochromia
The skull of an Indian gaur
A lion-tailed macaque, an endangered species
A peacock on our morning drive
Sitting by the stream between the tea estates
The stream, with tea estates all around
Inside Parry's Tea Factory
Tea factory, constructed in old architectural style
Tea ready for drying and separation
Accommodation
Sinnadorai Bungalows
📍 Sinna Dorai's Upper Paralai Bungalow, Valparai
Fantastic bungalows left behind by the British, on a sprawling tea estate. The setting is stunning and very quiet, with open views of valleys, tea estates and mountains. The cottages are large and comfortable, with all the modern amenities you need, and there are fantastic spaces to sit out in the open and relax. The drive to the property is a bit tricky, on broken roads, but it offers views of local wildlife and birds for nature enthusiasts. There are natural streams nearby that you can enjoy as well. The staff is very welcoming and takes care of most needs.
Additional Considerations
Start early at 6 am if you want to look for birds and wildlife near Sholayar Dam, as the Malabar hornbill is not guaranteed. Parry's Tea Factory is open to visitors, and the visit is worth it. Spices are available in Valparai town, 8 km from the property.
Day 8: The Road Home - Valparai to Bangalore
15 Oct 2026
Day 8 was the drive home from Valparai to Bangalore. It was expected to take 8 hours, and we made good time for most of it, but the Bangalore traffic after Hosur ate up every minute we had saved.
The route down to Pollachi runs through the ghats, with 40 hairpin bends. The weather was nice and the views were lovely. The reservoir at the end looked nearly empty, another sign of the weak rains. After the ghats we stopped briefly at Monkey Falls. There was nothing spectacular to see, probably because of the lack of rain, and it can be skipped.
We then joined NH83 and NH544, which were in good shape all the way. Our route was Valparai, Pollachi, Coimbatore, Avinashi, Perundurai, Salem, Dharmapuri, Rayakottai, Hosur and Bangalore. Traffic on NH544 was noticeably lighter than on NH44 after Dharmapuri. There were good food options at Salem and Coimbatore, but we chose to stop after Salem at Sri Saravana Bhavan near the Sankagiri toll gate. We cannot say we loved it. Everything was too spicy for adults and kids alike, and we should have gone for the meals instead.
Traffic and rain made the last stretch into Bangalore slow, and we reached home at 7 pm after a long day. All that was left was to look back on the week gone by.
Highlights
- ✅ Smooth roads on NH83, NH544 and NH44
- ✅ The ghat drive down to Pollachi, with 40 hairpin bends
- ❌ Traffic jam and rain entering Bangalore after Hosur
- ❌ Food at Sri Saravana Bhavan near the Sankagiri toll was too spicy
- ❌ Monkey Falls was not much to see in the dry season
Photos
One last breakfast at Sinnadorai
A game before we hit the road
Morning at the bungalow
A last morning tea
A misty morning in the tea estate
Monkey Falls, nearly dry
Places to Eat
Sri Saravana Bhavan
📍 Sri Saravana Bhavan, Near Sankagiri toll gate
A highway stop after Salem. We could not say we loved it. Everything was too spicy for adults and kids, and the meals might have been a better choice. Salem and Coimbatore both have better options. If you choose to stop here, maybe try the local meals thali.
Additional Considerations
Allow a full day for the drive, around 8 hours without traffic, and expect delays near Hosur. The route via Pollachi, Coimbatore and Salem has good roads. Skip Monkey Falls in the dry season. Eat at Salem or Coimbatore, which have better options than the highway stops, or order meals instead of a la carte.