Road trip - Himachal Circuit
A 15-day road trip through Himachal Pradesh, winding through pine-scented forests, apple orchards, and snow-kissed mountains. From the bohemian charm of Kasol and the quiet orchards of Thanedar to the bustling lanes of Manali and the colonial echoes of Dalhousie, each stop brought its own flavor. We wandered through Tibetan monasteries in McLeodganj, soaked in the serenity of Jibhi, and breathed in the crisp air of Tirthan Valley. A journey of winding roads, cozy homestays, and endless chai breaks—Himachal unfolded like a slow, soulful melody
A 15-day road trip through Himachal Pradesh, winding through pine-scented forests, apple orchards, and snow-kissed mountains. From the bohemian charm of Kasol and the quiet orchards of Thanedar to the bustling lanes of Manali and the colonial echoes of Dalhousie, each stop brought its own flavor. We wandered through Tibetan monasteries in McLeodganj, soaked in the serenity of Jibhi, and breathed in the crisp air of Tirthan Valley. A journey of winding roads, cozy homestays, and endless chai breaks—Himachal unfolded like a slow, soulful melody.
Planning resources
We used a google sheet for our Trip planning and hotel booking tracking. This also helped us project the total cost of the trip. A public version of the sheet will be available for anyone to reference.
Driving route
🚗 Delhi -> Kasauli -> Thanedar -> Jibhi -> Manali -> Dharamshala/McLeodganj -> Dalhousie -> Chandigarh -> Ambala -> Delhi
Note
We are still populating our experience from this trip. You will see details pop here over time
Day-by-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Hopping over to the North India - Bengaluru to New Delhi
3 May 2024
We kicked off our adventure on a Friday, flying from Bengaluru to Delhi. The plan was simple: land in Delhi at night, stay overnight, pick up our rental car, and hit the road early the next morning. We left for the airport around 2:30 pm, carrying a fair bit of luggage, including a child seat to make the long road trip more comfortable for our younger one. Thankfully, IndiGo allowed it as an extra item without any hassle. The flight was smooth. We kept the kids fed and entertained, and landed in Delhi around 11:00 pm. Our hotel, however, was a disappointment. The listing had made it seem like it was in Aerocity, but it turned out to be in Mahipalpur, in a dingy part of town. Still, since it was just a night halt, we let it slide. We settled in, ordered some forgettable food, and got ready to call it a night. Meanwhile, I headed out to pick up our rental car from RBTS. We had originally booked a Hyundai Exter but were given a Suzuki Fronx instead, same segment and also automatic, so no complaints. Given the late hour, I appreciated that someone was available for the handover. The car was fairly new, with about 22,000 km on the odometer. Apart from a few minor quirks, everything looked good. The RBTS team was helpful when I had some questions. I got back to the hotel, and we all went to bed, ready to begin our road trip bright and early the next morning between 6–7 am
BTW, We would highly recommend RBTS self drive car rental service. They have new cars and a wide variety of range. The support and service is fantastic.
Highlights
- ✅ Rains and pleasant weather
- ✅ Seamless car pickup with RBTS
- ❌ The first hotel for the night
- ❌ Carrying the car seat to Delhi
Photos
High spirits at the Bangalore airport, before boarding the flight
Our ride for the rest of the roadtrip. One that fared Himachal very well and kept us comfortable
Accommodation
Hotel Almati Inn at Delhi Airport
📍 Hotel Almati Inn by R S Global
Misleading pictures and misrepresented location by saying that it is near airport. This is in Mahipalpur and not in Aerocity. Budget hotel and lack of hygiene in the bathrooms. Suspicious linen in the room. That being said the rooms themselves were decently large and we did not have to pay for the extra bed. Food, as expected, was bit underwhelming. Do not recommend
Additional Considerations
We would highly recommend RBTS self drive car rental service. They have new cars and a wide variety of range. The support and service is fantastic. Even if you are looking to stay, look for a hotel in Aerocity and verify location
Day 2: Winding into the Hills - A Golden Welcome in Kasauli
4 May 2025
We kicked off Day 2 bright and early, leaving the hotel around 7 am. After sorting out a few small car niggles, we hit the highway with empty stomachs and eager faces. A late breakfast stop at the iconic Amrik Sukhdev in Murthal was just what we needed—hot tandoor chai and their famous tandoori parathas were so good that we couldn’t stop at just one. Let’s just say the carb-load was real! 🍵🥘 From there, the drive was smooth and scenic, about seven hours in total with breaks. The route took us past Panipat, Ambala, and Zirakpur near Chandigarh before the landscape began to change. After crossing Parwanoo, the wide highways gave way to gentle curves and pine-scented air—the first signs that we were truly in the hills. We even spotted rivers along the way, making the drive all the more enjoyable. By around 3:45 pm, we rolled into Kasauli. After checking into our hotel and settling in, we took a leisurely stroll through the town and into the cantonment area. Due to a forest fire in the nearby jungles, the treks were closed, but that didn’t stop us from catching a gorgeous sunset over the hills. The day wrapped up with a comforting dinner and an early night, our tired bodies happy to finally be in the mountains.
Highlights
- ✅ A smooth drive to Kasauli with temperature dipping down consistently
- ✅ A fantastic food fare at Amrik Sukhdev
- ✅ A Beautiful sunset in the evening
- ❌ Wildfires in Kasauli introducing uncertainity in Gilbert trail trek
Photos
Our first stop on the way Amrik Sukhdev. And their fantastic butter rich tandoori parathas
Amrik Sukhdev, gulabi chai! Looks more beautiful than it tasted. Maybe we are more traditional when it comes to Chai
Entering Himachal after several hours on the road
Trekking to the market in Kasauli
Glimpse of ongoing wildfire in Kasauli on the day we reached
The Kasauli market is painted with these gems!
The Kasauli market is painted with these gems!
Evening trek to watch sunset
The amazing sunset views
The amazing sunset views
The amazing sunset views
Accommodation
Kasauli Exotica
A small budget hotel with a beautiful location. 15 minutes walk to to the Kasauli Market. A bit of a climb. The rooms were small, food was ok the view was great! The service and value for money made it worth the stay. If you are looking for a value for money stay
Places to Eat
Amrik Sukhdev
📍 Amrik Sukhdev, Grand Trunk Road
Famous for their Tandoori Butter Paratha with a much wider selection of fresh fantastic food
Dochi Pizza
Overcrowded Pizza joint. The reviews were great, we didn't have patience to wait and eat. Went next door and the restaurant was fantastic too! Especially dal tadka!
Zaika
Next to Dochi pizza. The Indian food was great! Especially dal tadka!
Additional Considerations
Be prepared for a walk across the Market which was on a tarred road uphill and downhill. Evenings in Kasauli can get chilly, so a light jacket is handy. Forest fires can sometimes close off treks—have a backup plan like a town walk or sunset spot
Day 3: Cantonment Tales, Korean Flavours & a Sunset Walk
5 May 2024
Our Day 3 began with a short drive from Kasauli to Subathu, a quiet little cantonment town just about an hour away. Subathu has quite a history—during the Anglo-Nepalese War in the early 1800s, it played a key role, and today it is home to the 1st and 4th Gorkha Rifles of the Indian Army. We strolled around the cantonment, soaking in the calm streets and military vibe, before heading back to Kasauli. </br></br> Back in town, we stopped by the Church of England near Mall Road, a reminder of the colonial past tucked into the hills. For lunch, we switched gears and tried something unexpected—a Korean restaurant! The bibimbap was colourful, authentic, and surprisingly comforting, a nice change from the usual hill food. </br></br> By early evening, it was time for our much-awaited walk along the Gilbert Trail. This narrow 2 km stretch winds along the hillside and is known for its lovely views. True to its reputation, the trail rewarded us with a spectacular sunset over the valleys, the kind you pause to remember. As the light faded, we traced our steps back, reading the names of martyrs on the memorial boards along the cantonment road—a quiet, reflective end to the walk. </br> </br> Dinner was a simple affair that night, as our tired legs were eager for rest. We tucked ourselves in, ready to recharge for the adventures waiting on Day 4
Highlights
- ✅ Gilbert trail - A beautiful short trek with splendid sunset views
- ✅ The Korean lunch - Near the church
Photos
Snapshotting outsleves with an idle crane on the roadside
An old installation of the sundial at the Church of England
Church of England - Near Mall road Kasauli
The Korean menu for lunch
The authentic looking delicious Bibimbap
The wildfire in the mountains that were moving around
Gilbert trail trek
Gilbert trail trek
The beautiful sunset from the Gilbert trail
Accommodation
Kasauli Exotica
A small budget hotel with a beautiful location. 15 minutes walk to to the Kasauli Market. A bit of a climb. The rooms were small, food was ok the view was great! The service and value for money made it worth the stay. If you are looking for a value for money stay
Places to Eat
Taste Of Tibet
📍 Taste Of Tibet, Near Christ Church, Kasauli
Great Korean and Tibetian food. Will recommend Bibimbap & Thupka
Additional Considerations
Subathu is best explored on foot, so keep it light and short if travelling with kids. Gilbert Trail isn’t stroller-friendly—it’s narrow and uneven, so younger kids will need a handholding walk. Carry a light jacket and a torch for the trail if you plan to stay till sunset—the path gets dark quickly once the sun dips.
Day 4: Yaks, Hidden Cafés & the Thrill of Hatu Peak
6 May 2025
We started Day 4 on a relaxed note, leaving Kasauli around 10 am. The plan was simple—an easy 4–5 hour drive with a stop at Hatu Peak before reaching Thanedar. About two hours into the journey, we pulled over at a tea point where locals had brought along yaks for photos and colourful costumes for kids. Naturally, our little ones were excited to try both, and we happily joined in. It turned into an impromptu roadside photoshoot with tea in hand, against the backdrop of the scenic drive. The road through Shimla (we have been to Shimla before and since we felt it was too commercial for us, it was not part of our itinerary) and Kufri kept us entertained with its sweeping views. Just before Kufri, we made a quick photo stop before continuing on. For lunch, we stumbled upon a gem—Khadu Café near Nanni village in Matiana. With its rustic charm, local flavours, and freshly cooked food, this was easily one of the best food finds of our entire trip. The highlights? Sweet and savoury sattu, pahadi aloo, kadhi chawal, rajma chawal, and a soul-warming lemon-ginger-honey tea. Everything was authentic and bursting with flavour—we’d go back just for this! Post-lunch, we drove towards Hatu Peak. At the base, locals advised us to hire a driver for the narrow, steep climb with its deep gorges on either side. But we decided to take it on ourselves. They weren’t wrong—the single-lane mountain road was tricky and thrilling, with only one tight spot where another vehicle had to help us pass. Still, with some prior mountain driving experience, we managed fine and reached the top in about 45 minutes. The peak welcomed us with chilly winds, stunning views, and the serene Hatu Mata Temple. Just as we soaked it all in, the clouds rolled over and light rain began, adding to the magic. The descent took around an hour, and with a sense of accomplishment, we continued our drive. By 5 pm, we reached Banjara Resort in Thanedar, set amidst beautiful apple and orange orchards. The weather was cool, so sweaters and sweatshirts came out. The rooms were cozy with electric blankets—a small luxury that felt just right for the evening chill. After exploring the property and watching the sunset right from our room, we enjoyed a simple but fresh dinner at the resort’s restaurant. Tired yet content, we ended the day snuggled up in our warm beds.
Highlights
- ✅ Drive to and from Hatu Peak
- ✅ Food at Kadhu Cafe - Rajma Chawal, Kadi Chawal and Sattu
- ✅ Sunset at Banjara Orchards, Thanedar
- ❌ Traffic as we passed through Shimla, since we started late
Photos
Kids posing with poor yaks who are often exploited for such touristy things
Excited to try local costumes. As you can see, the son wants what the sister gets. Nothing less, nothing more
Khadu Cafe - A fantastic setting and a view
The amazing sweet and savory sattu
Pahadi aalo with Rajma, Kadi and Chawal. Just yum!
A fantastic and authentic Honey, Lemon and Ginger tea. Super refreshing
The Hatu Peak at 11,000 ft
Posing with the beautiful views in the backdrop
The unique hatu mata temple made from local wood and uncommon structure
Sunset from the Stay at the Thanedar property
View from the property restaurant
Accommodation
Banjara Orchard Retreat, Thanedar
📍 Banjara Orchard Retreat, Thanedar
A quiet and peaceful stay with cottages and rooms on ground and first floors. Lot of open spaces, great service, and decent availability of the food. Worth for a stay for a day as a mid-stop for a longer journey. Alternatively, they may be able to arrange exploration and treks nearby if the goal is to stay longer and just relax in the lap of nature. They have an huge Orange Orchard to explore. Overall, value for money and great service. Highly recommended
Places to Eat
Khadu Cafe
📍 Khadu Cafe, Nanni village, Himachal Pradesh
Amazing local delicacies. Especially Sattu, Kadi and Rajama Chawal
Additional Considerations
The Hatu Peak drive is not for first-time mountain drivers. If you’re not confident, it’s better to hire a local driver for the climb. Carry warm clothes—the weather at the top and in Thanedar can get chilly, even in summer. The roads are good and drive is generally relaxing. You can plan a halt at Shimla if it makes sense for you
Day 5: Lakes, Cherries & the Road to Jibhi
7 May 2025
Day 5 turned out to be a feast for the eyes. We began with a slow morning stroll around our stay in Thanedar, exploring its step farming and fruit orchards before setting out at 9:30 am. Our first stop was the beautiful Tani Jubbar Lake, just a short drive away. Nestled among tall fir trees, the lake shimmered under the morning sun. A gentle walk around its shaded banks, with the crisp air and soft warmth of the sun, felt like the perfect start to the day.
Soon, we were back on the road towards Jibhi, our destination for the night. A road accident caused a long jam, but it turned into a happy accident for us—we spotted roadside cherry trees heavy with fruit, and the kind owner let us pluck a few. They were easily the freshest and sweetest cherries we’ve ever tasted 🍒. By the time traffic cleared 30–45 minutes later, we were back to winding through mountain roads.
Not long after, the Sutlej River appeared near Rhena and stayed with us for much of the journey. At one spot, we pulled over to dip our feet into its icy-cold waters ❄️—a small but blissful break. For lunch, we stopped at a cozy café called Rustic Shoja. The food was hearty and tasty, and though service was on the slower side, we didn’t mind—it had a relaxed vibe with board games to keep us entertained, and Jibhi was just half an hour away.
Before checking into our stay, we made a quick stop at the Jibhi Waterfall. Tucked inside a green pocket, the waterfall was small but charming, surrounded by peaceful forest. The kids were thrilled to buy quirky roadside caps—one shaped like a mushroom head! From there, we drove to our stay, Misty Wild Homes, located just outside Jibhi. Getting there was an adventure in itself—crossing a shallow river bed and a rocky path over a low bridge. The property had simple rooms and basic amenities, but the setting made up for it. Dinner was an easy Maggie night 🍜, followed by hot baths to fight the evening chill. We tucked in early, tired but happy after a day filled with lakes, rivers, cherries, and mountain views.
Highlights
- ✅ Feet dippig in Sutlej and the beautiful drive along the river
- ✅ Lunch at the Rustic Shoja
- ✅ The walk at the Tani Jubbar lake
- ❌ The traffic jam on the narrow hilly roads that were unpredictable and ate into our travel time
Photos
Exploring the Banjara Orchard in Thanedar before our departure
The view of Tani Jubbar lake and the trees around
Picking cherry with a friend from the roadside
Collected cherries in our palms freshly plucked from the tree
The first view of the beautiful and heary Sutlej
More close up views of Sutlej
Taking a impromptu break on the banks of Sutlej
The Rustic Shoja restaurant we picked for lunch
Love the fact that all mountains are covered in lush green trees
Posing in front of the Jibhi waterfall
The entry from the road for the Jibhi waterfall
Lush green insides of the waterfall area as you walk to the waterfall
The quaint nice room at Jibhi Misty Wild Woods
Havind maggie and soup for dinner! Bliss in a cold night
Accommodation
The Misty Wilds Home, Jibhi
The property is fairly small and if you are located on the first floor, you need to carry over your luggage. The kitchen and laundry is run by a local couple living there. The breakfast was in their kitchen, and the setting to eat it was fairly local and lovely. However the availabilty of hot water was limited and there were power cut issues. The access was a bit away from the city. While it is a beautiful location, due to lack of amanities and mediocre service, will give it 3 stars. More of a value stay, if you are looking for a shoestring budget
Places to Eat
The Rustic Shoja
Nice location right after a bend on a downhill road. Parking can be tricky. Boardgames and views to unwind. The food was fresh and chapati were really nice however the speed of service was quite slow for a quick lunch stop. The restrooms were ok and didn't have running water when we stopped
Additional Considerations
Tani Jubbar Lake is kid-friendly and easy to walk around—carry a picnic mat if you’d like to sit by the water. Roadside fruit stalls and orchards are common—if you’re lucky like us, you may get to taste cherries straight off the tree 🍒. The Sutlej River is icy cold and slippery—watch your step if kids dip their feet