Road trip - Bangalore to Leh!

May 24, 2025 22 Days Leh, Ladakh, India

An adventure road-trip from Bangalore, crossing nine Indian states and a stunning variety of landscapes—from lush forests to vast deserts. Experiencing the vibrant culture, flavors, and colors of India as you travel through bustling cities and serene countryside. The journey culminated in the majestic Himalayas, where turquoise lakes, ancient monasteries, and soaring passes led us to the tranquil beauty of Leh.

Our incredible 22 days road trip was more than just a journey across cities. It was a voyage through India’s wildly changing moods. From the sun-baked highways of Bangalore, to the sticky monsoon rains of Mumbai, the dry heat of Ahmedabad, the golden dust of Jaipur, and the cool breeze of Chandigarh. Each stop brought its own weather, its own vibe. But nothing quite prepared us for what came next: the thinning air and winding climbs of Jispa, the snow-kissed peaks of Leh, the shimmering blues of Pangong Tso, the high deserts of Nubra, and finally, the lush, pine-framed beauty of Srinagar. With every turn of the road, we felt the altitude shift, the temperature dance, and our hearts race with both awe and breathlessness. It was a test of wheels, willpower, and wonder—and we wouldn’t have it any other way.

Planning resources

Leh Trip - Planning Sheet

We used a google sheet for our Trip planning and hotel booking tracking. This also helped us project the total cost of the trip. A public version of the sheet is available for anyone to reference. The hotel cost has been left empty, as everyone has their own preference and thought process to book it based on their need.

Travel details

Total distance 5749 kilometers

Total driving time 136 hours approximately

Total fuel consumed 400 litres of diesel costing around INR 35,000

Driving route Bengaluru > Pune > Mumbai > Ahmedabad > Jaipur > Chandigarh > Jispa > Leh > PangongTso > Nubra > Srinagar > Chandigargh > Bangalore

Description

Ground rules for driving safely

No driving beyond 8 pm preferably: We planned our travel in a way where we could choose to start early in the morning but we almost never drove after 8 pm

Predictable hotels for a good night rest: We did not compromise on the quality of stay at hotels to ensure we always had a good night sleep and comfortable beds. Hotels where basics and hygiene were guranteed

Always start driving after a shower: No matter how cold, start the morning with a warm bath to keep mind and body fresh

Hydrate, hydrate and hydrate: We incentivised drinking water for kids and ensured we drank enough ourselves

Driver switch and small breaks: We left buffer for traffic snarls and did driver switch. Took enough breaks to enjoy the journey

Day-by-Day Itinerary

Day 1: Back to Where It All Began – Bangalore to Pune

24 May 2025

We hit the road at 4:45 AM, and it helped us beat the Bangalore traffic. Our playlist kicked in, and with the click of a seatbelt, the journey had begun. Our first pit stop came a few hours later at A2B in Sira. The breakfast was functional, not memorable—but it filled our bellies and bought us time to stretch our legs before hitting the road again. By mid-morning, we reached Dharwad, where a quick stop at Big Mishra. Their famous pedas were a delight. We grabbed some snacks too, but honestly, the pedas stole the spotlight. Between Belgavi and Satara, we were greeted with heavy traffic, never-ending construction, and surprise diversions that made the route feel more like an obstacle course. A gentle drizzle added to the chaos, but the scenery—and the promise of dinner—kept us going. By the time the sun dipped, hunger struck again. We stopped at Manas Restobar, just before Satara. The mutton thali was hearty and unforgettable, and the paya soup was great. The final stretch into Pune tested our patience. Twenty-five kilometers in two hours! We reached our hotel much later than planned, but when we hit the bed we were brimming with excitement as all our planning for the last few months was going to be real. The adventure had officially begun!

Highlights

  • ✅ Rains and pleasant weather
  • ✅ Peda at Big Mishra - Dharwad
  • ✅ The mutton thali at Manas restobar near Satara
  • ❌ Construction and diversions after Belgavi and before Satara
  • ❌ Traffic snarls near Kohlapur and as we entered the city of Pune

Photos

Accommodation

Taj Vivanta

📍 Vivanta Pune, Hinjawadi

Not the best Taj experience but value for money. Worked well as it was closer to Pune exit for Mumbai travel

Places to Eat

Big Mishra

📍 Big Mishra Pedha, Joga Yellapur, Karnataka

Famous for their soft, milky pedas that melt in your mouth. A must-try detour!

Manas Restobar

📍 Manas Resto Lounge, Satara

Excellent mutton thali and soul-warming paya soup. A hidden gem on the highway

Additional Considerations

Start early (4:00 - 5:00 AM) to avoid heavy traffic on major highways

Day 2: From Pune with Love, to Mumbai in the Rain

25 May 2023

We started the day in Pune after a much-needed night’s rest. The weather was cool and overcast—perfect for a slow morning. After breakfast at our hotel, we took a short drive around some older parts of the city reminiscing about our time in the city. It was mostly about soaking in the quiet before before meeting extended family in the city. Before leaving town, we stopped for a quick car wash in Hinjewadi and costed us only INR 250. After the long drive from Bangalore the previous day, the car needed a refresh. The drive from Pune to Mumbai was mostly straightforward, except for the expected traffic snarl at the toll plazas. One of them took nearly 45 minutes to cross, which slowed us down quite a bit. As we approached Mumbai, pre-monsoon rain kicked in. Visibility dropped a bit, and traffic got heavier, especially around the outskirts. The roads were manageable, but progress was slow. By early evening, we reached our stop. The plan was to do a 2 day halt in the city and spend time with family. Dinner was simple and homemade, and everyone was tired from the day. We unpacked, got the kids settled, and wrapped up the day quietly. It wasn’t a very long driving day, but it had its share of delays and transitions

Highlights

  • ✅ Got an external car wash with a car-wash service - Paid INR 250
  • ✅ Stayed with family and had quality time
  • ✅ Drove down to Mumbai
  • ❌ Traffic woes at Mumbai Pune expressway toll-gate
  • ❌ Crazy rains and thunderstorm enroute and in Mumbai

Photos

Accommodation

With family

📍 Navi Mumbai

Nothing like home

Places to Eat

Savya Rasa

📍 Savya Rasa, Pune

Famous for their authentic Chettinad cuisine

Kalyani Tiffin Room

📍 Kalyani Tiffin room, Kalyani Nagar Pune

Good south Indian breakfast with filter coffee

Additional Considerations

We were 2 Adults and 2 kids in the room (both of them <12 years old) at Taj Vivanta. Extra bed costed approx INR 1000 plus GST. It is worth knowing that price of extra mattress vs extra bed in the room can differ. Extra mattress is more value for money and also leaves more space to move around. Additionally there are car wash places in Hinjewadi/Wakad if you are looking for one

Day 3 & 4: Rain Songs and Quiet Days in Mumbai

26 and 27 May 2025

Not every day on a road trip needs to be packed with a planned itinerary. We spent two slow, quiet days in Mumbai, tucked away in the comfort of a relative’s home while the city braced for a rain red alert. The monsoon had arrived early, and Mumbai was being Mumbai in rains. For us, not used to Mumbai’s electric mood swings, it was a little unnerving. Even the kids, who started off thrilled by the stormy soundtrack, ended anxious at the loudest cracks of thunder. But inside the house, things were warm and grounding. Lego sets, catch up with family, laughter and chai. Outside, the streets turned into rivers. Thankfully our plan included a brief stay with family in Mumbai and that planned break provided needed buffer with weather uncertainity in Mumbai

Highlights

  • ✅ Stayed with family and had quality time
  • ❌ Heavy rainafall which was very scary

Photos

Weathering the storm in Mumbai

Weathering the storm in Mumbai

Fueling up the car on the way to Mumbai

Fueling up the car on the way to Mumbai

Nice dosa and filter coffee in Pune - Kalyani Tiffin Room

Nice dosa and filter coffee in Pune - Kalyani Tiffin Room

Accommodation

With family

📍 Navi Mumbai

Nothig like home

Day 5: From Mumbai to Ahmedabad – Trucks, Tea & Turbo Lanes

28 May 2025

We kicked off Day 5 before the sun had risen, with sleepy eyes, packed bags, and wheels already rolling. Mumbai, soaked from pre-monsoon showers, faded behind us soon. Our first stop came around 7 AM at Vasai, where a much-needed tea break turned into a two-hour pause. Blame it on the kids, or promised time to family, but it was a good break. By 9 AM, we were back on the road. The route was a full tour of Gujarat’s highways. Vasai → Vapi → Surat → Bharuch → Vadodara → Ahmedabad. The stretch till Vadodara was a trucker’s paradise and a driver’s patience test—slow convoys, endless honking, and the kind of traffic that makes you question all your life decisions. Finally near Bharuch we took a sharp turn for the better—switching from NH48 to NE4. The road opened up in front of us: smooth tarmac, wide lanes, and a 120 km/h speed limit. The expressway cut our drive time significantly and gave us a chance to breathe, cruise, and enjoy the changing scenery. After Vadodara, we merged back onto NH48/NE1. It wasn’t an expressway, but with lighter traffic, it was a pleasant, unhurried drive. As we entered Ahmedabad, we were stopped by cops to check if we were bringing in liquor into Gujrat (it being a dry state). Along the way our food excursions involved: Hotel Ahura (Talasari) - Famous for Irani fare, we kept it simple with chai and maska bun. The toilets? Functional, but not winning any awards. Jalaram Kathiyawad Hotel (after Kamrej) - A bit dark and modest-looking at first glance, but the Gujarati thali was fresh, flavorful, and soul-satisfying. Toilets? Just okay, but usable. By 6:30 PM, we finally rolled into Ahmedabad—tired, dusty, and entirely satisfied. This leg of our journey was all about contrasts: Truck traffic to smooth expressways. Quick tea to hearty thalis. And the joy of watching landscapes shift from coastal humidity to Gujarat’s dry plains—one toll gate at a time and intense heat. But we had reached our destination and kids didn’t skip a beat before pluging into the pool. Despite the long drive, we ventured out for Dinner at Swati Snacks and we didn’t regret it. Ordered a bunch of local delicacies from the menu and none of them were a decision we regretted. We topped that up with roadside Asharfi Kulfi and it was a fantastic decision as well. Finally, tired and bellies full, we crashed back into our beds and thus came our day to an end

Highlights

  • ✅ Gujrati Thali at Jalaram Kathiyawad
  • ✅ Dinner at Swati's snack on Law college road
  • ✅ Asharfi Kulfi at Law Garden Roadside
  • ✅ NE4 drive from Bharuch to Vadodara
  • ❌ Truck traffic between Mumbai and Ahemdabad

Photos

Accommodation

Renaissance Ahmedabad Hotel

📍 Renaissance Ahmedabad Hotel

Comfortable and clean rooms. Executive lounge if you are working. Some service from staff was great, other was just sub-par

Places to Eat

Swati Snacks

📍 Swati Snacks, Law college garden, Ahmedabad

Fantastic assortment of local delicacies. Also Asharfi ice cream truck across the street

Additional Considerations

Start drive early and try to beat the traffic. Switching to NE4 from Bharuch is recommended

Day 6: Splash, Screen & Sabarmati – A Hot Day in Colorful Ahmedabad

29 May 2025

We woke up to Ahmedabad doing what it does best—turning up the heat like it’s on a mission. So we did the only sensible thing—jumped into the pool. The kids turned into water sprites for a full hour. The sun kept blazing, but the cool water was our temporary escape hatch. Post-pool, we had breakfast, though it didn’t win any awards from us. The French toast was more “concept” than “cooked”, the kind that makes you wonder if the chef got distracted halfway through. But road trip rule #7: not every meal is a win, and that’s okay. By noon, stepping outside felt like walking into a hairdryer on turbo. We needed a plan—and found it in the form of a dark, air-conditioned movie theatre. Lilo & Stitch was our pick, and it turned out to be the perfect road trip metaphor: chaos, heart, and an accidental family that sticks. The kids were all in, and honestly, so were we. As the evening softened, we stepped out again to explore Atal Bridge and the Flower Garden. Entry was smooth gate 3, with parking just across the road. The gardens popped with color, the bridge shimmered against the sunset, and the Sabarmati below added that quiet, reflective touch. For a day that began with a heatwave, it was the kind of evening that made up for it all. Dinner was a full-on Gujarati celebration at Gordhan Thal. The thali was packed with flavor, comfort, and generosity—every bite a hug. We rolled out full, happy, and a little dazed. Back at the hotel, exhaustion caught up quick. We sank into bed, the kind of tired that comes from a day well spent. Day 6 had it all—heat, heart, and a city that knew how to make an impression.

Highlights

  • ✅ Atal bridge and flower park walk
  • ✅ Lilo and Stitch was a great watch in the afternoon
  • ✅ Goardhan thal meal for the dinner
  • ❌ The heat in Ahemdabad
  • ❌ Breakfast buffet, while had a good spread, good dishes were far and few

Photos

Accommodation

Renaissance Ahmedabad Hotel

📍 Renaissance Ahmedabad Hotel

Comfortable and clean rooms. Executive lounge if you are working. Some service from staff was great, other was just sub-par

Places to Eat

Gordhan thal

📍 Gordhan Thal, Ahmedabad

Famous for their elaborate Gujrati thali

Additional Considerations

If you are staying at Renaissance hotel, then top floor has a lounge that is accessible. You can quietly work there and also enjoy view to the city

Day 7: Smooth Roads, a Sensor Scare & a Silent Engine

30 May 2025

We were up early, refreshed and ready to leave Ahmedabad behind. The sky was just beginning to yawn when we packed up and hit the road toward Jaipur. The drive started smooth—open highways, decent weather, and a sense of momentum. Around the four-hour mark, our stomachs voted unanimously for a break, so we pulled into a place called Dhabalogy. Now this wasn’t your usual roadside dhaba, it had a quirky name, and food that actually delivered. The bathrooms? Let’s just say the boys’ loo had.. personality. Back in the car, the plot twist arrived. A warning on the dashboard: Check DEF system. Followed closely by, “Engine will not restart after 400 km.” This was worrying. We called the nearest service center (Jaipur) who advised, “the best course of action is to get it checked at Jaipur service center. And if we don’t switch off the engine then it will not shut off while the car is running”. Turns out the DEF wasn’t really empty; the sensor had simply gone rogue. But still—no chances taken. We stayed on the move. By the time we rolled into Jaipur, our first stop wasn’t a hotel, it was the service center. Car handed off for diagnostics, we hailed a cab and headed to hotel. The hotel felt like a safe zone and a welcome contrast to the DEF drama. A light dinner followed, more out of habit than hunger. Then we sank into our beds, grateful for everything—the smooth parts, the tasty detours, and even the surprise curveball. Because that’s the thing about road trips: every day writes its own little thriller. And Day 7 definitely kept us on our toes.

Highlights

  • ✅ Good highways to drive in Rajasthan
  • ✅ Good food and restaurant near Nathdwara between Udaipur and Jaipur
  • ❌ Faced technical issues with Jeep
  • ❌ Extreme heat in the month of May/June

Photos

Accommodation

Fairfield by Mariott, Bani Park, Jaipur

📍 Fairfield by Mariott, Bani Park, Jaipur

Comfortable and clean rooms but a bit too small for 2 kids and 2 adults. Service was good, apart from size they were value for money

Places to Eat

Dhabalogy

📍 Dhabalogy, Nathdwara Rajasthan

Great food options, including local food. Fantastic ambience. Can also check out old car collection and graffiti inside the restaurant

Additional Considerations

The highways are fantastic in Rajasthan. However there is often speed checking. Watch out speed limits. A new ring road around Jaipur help us beat city traffic while entering the city. We took that from Sitapura industrial area. Also Good thing about shopping in Jaipur textoriums are that you dont have to worry about the extra luggage you just added to your bags, they will courier it for you

Day 8: Lazy Mornings, Street Food & Lively Bazaars in Jaipur

31 May 2025

We woke up at 10 AM gloriously rested. No alarms, no agendas, just a slow, soft start to the day. Our Jaipur friends had pulled out all the stops with a homemade local breakfast, and we happily leaned into with chai, all served with warmth and chatter that made the morning fly by. Farewells were warm and unhurried, the kind that linger just a bit longer than planned. With goodbyes said, we headed out for a quick errand, picking up the car to continue our journey. We retreated to our hotel room to cool off and recharge. Jaipur’s heat doesn’t kid around, and the air-conditioned silence was a welcome pause. By late afternoon, another set of friends swept us into the whirl of Jaipur’s old city. The Pink City delivered its usual magic—narrow lanes bursting with color and life. We strolled past bright fabrics, glittering bangles, rows of jootis, and tempting food joints on Link road, Bapu bazaar and Chaura rasta. We sampled some of the savory and sweet snacks and they didn’t disappoint. As twilight crept in and shutters started coming down, we said goodbye again. Back at the hotel, we dumped our haul, stretched out, and let the day sink in. Day 8 wasn’t about ticking boxes. It was about people, place, and just enough chaos to keep it real. The good kind of tired followed us into bed.

Highlights

  • ✅ Lassi, Pani-puri, Ice-cream and Sugarcane juice in Bapu Bazar & Chaura Rasta
  • ✅ Shopping for Clothes, Bedsheets and other personal/gifting items

Photos

Hotel room, a bit compact for 4

Hotel room, a bit compact for 4

Relishing roadside Pani Puri in Bapu Bazaar

Relishing roadside Pani Puri in Bapu Bazaar

Passing by Albert Hall

Passing by Albert Hall

Accommodation

Fairfield by Mariott, Bani Park, Jaipur

📍 Fairfield by Mariott, Bani Park, Jaipur

Comfortable and clean rooms but a bit too small for 2 kids and 2 adults. Service was good, apart from size they were value for money

Places to Eat

Lassiwala

📍 Lassiwala - Kishan lal Govind Narain Agarwal, Jaipur

Fantastic Lassi. Take the big one. Might have flavors to try. But original itself was great

Roadside Pani puri, next to Laxmi Chat Bhandar

📍 Laxmi Chat Bhandar, Link Road, Jaipur

Delicious Pani Puri and chat

Additional Considerations

If you are shopping in Jaipur, shops are often very comfortable shipping stuff directly back to your home for additional yet reasonable charges. Would recommend asking them to do so instead of you lugging it around. Ask on counter and figure the details out

Day 9: Detours, Dhabas & the Road to Chandigarh

1 June 2025

We kicked off the day bright and early—bags packed. With Chandigarh on the map and a Noida halt on the cards, we rolled out for another day of highways, and detours. Roughly four to five hours in, we reached Noida to meet extended family. A few hours went by in the comfort of chatter, chai, and catch-up. By late afternoon, it was time to hug it out and get moving again. As dusk crept in, we reached Zirakpur on Chandigarh’s edge and checked into Radisson, our halt for the night. Dinner? Classic Punjabi soul food at the ever-reliable Pal Dhaba. Two kinds of chicken (because restraint is overrated), fresh rotis straight off the tandoor, and flavors that hit all the nostalgic notes. We wrapped things up with a detour to a softy joint nearby. The verdict? Meh. More melt than magic. Back at the hotel, the day caught up with us. and we were all snoozing soon.

Highlights

  • ✅ Homemade lunch in middle of a roadtrip and a good break
  • ✅ Got a chance to catch up family
  • ✅ Highway from Jaipur to Noida
  • ❌ Stop at The great Khali Dabha on the way was underwhelming. Food was not great, nor was chai

Photos

Sampling unimpressive food at the Great Khali Dabha

Sampling unimpressive food at the Great Khali Dabha

Fantastic chicken and fresh tandoori rotis at Old Pal Dabha

Fantastic chicken and fresh tandoori rotis at Old Pal Dabha

Overcrowded softy corner raised our hopes

Overcrowded softy corner raised our hopes

The taste of actual softies was a bit underwhelming

The taste of actual softies was a bit underwhelming

Accommodation

Radisson Hotel, Zirakpur Chandigarh

📍 Radisson Hotel, Zirakpur Chandigarh

Spacious rooms and comfortable. Mixed service experience. Breakfast was not great when we turned up early morning, it got better later. Between Sakshi and Sahil, prefer Sakshi on front desk. Sahil was arrogant and apathetic. Ignored issues and was not great to talk to

Places to Eat

Old Pal Dabha

📍 Old Pal Dhaba, Sector 28, Chandigarh

Fantastic Non-Veg (Chicken, Mutton and Tandoori Roti). Please be aware there are multiple of these. Go for the one in Sector 34c

Softy Corner

📍 Softy Corner, 87-88 Jan Marg, Chandigarh

Options for snacks and ice cream. While we didn't like softy as much they are quite popular and can be checked out

Ram Chaat Bhandar and other food joints

📍 Ram Chaat Bhandar (Ambala wale), Chandigarh

The whole block is foodie heaven and lot of options available

Additional Considerations

There is a better highway from Jaipur to Chandigarh however we took the route via Noida for personal reasons. Lookup a faster route if you are heading to Chandigarh directly. Chandigarh is very well planned as a city. Fairly decent drivers, ample parking and lot of foodie joints. Prefer hotel in Chandigarh rather than Zirakpur

Day 10: Chandigarh to Jispa - Into the Heart of the Himalayas – With a Worry Tucked In

2 June 2025

We left Chandigarh at 7:10 AM, starting our drive toward Keylong. The roads were clear early in the day, and we made steady progress. A few hours in, we took a break at The Daig, a small roadside café. We had tea and a cold shake, and took the opportunity to stretch and get some fresh air. Shortly after, we started driving alongside the Beas River, which stayed with us for a significant part of the route. The road gradually climbed through the lower hills of Himachal Pradesh. Our original plan was to take the Rohtang Pass, but permits for travel beyond Rohtang weren’t being issued that day. Instead, we drove through the Atal Tunnel—a 10-kilometer tunnel that connects Manali with the Lahaul region. On exiting the tunnel, the weather became cooler and the terrain changed visibly, with pine trees, higher mountains, and a noticeable drop in temperature. We stopped briefly near the Chenab River. The water was extremely cold, and the surroundings were quiet. We continued on narrow mountain roads and eventually reached our destination for the night: Gemur Khar Banjara, a resort located between Keylong and Jispa. The property was well located, surrounded by hills, with river sounds in the background. However, the day ended with two significant concerns. Our daughter’s condition had worsened, likely due to altitude. She was nauseous, weak, and not eating. Around the same time, the car resurfaced the DEF System Error, even though the DEF was completely topped up. Based on previous inspection the service center had said that beyond resetting they didn’t find anything specific, so nothing has been changed to fix the issue only the warning was reset. This warning meant that if the issue wasn’t resolved, the car would stop functioning after 400 km. Our next day drive was to Leh and With no mobile network and no service centers nearby, we had to decide between turning back to Chandigarh to get it checked or continuing toward Leh. We ended the day uncertain about what to do next. The car issue and our daughter’s health were both serious concerns. We planned to reassess the situation in the morning based on how things looked. It was an anxious night

Highlights

  • ✅ Location is very serene facing mountains and a river
  • ✅ Drive was beautiful. Temprature dropped significantly requiring electric blankets and hoodies
  • ✅ Met other fellow travellers who were visiting Jispa on a short trip from Mumbai
  • ❌ Breakfast at Radisson was a bit disappointing. This turned out to be better during return journey
  • ❌ Day ending with a DEF error in the car
  • ❌ Daughter down with gastroenteritis causing nausea and stomach cramps

Photos

Accommodation

Gemoor Khar Banjara

📍 Gemoor Khar Banjara, Keylong

Beautiful property, nesteld in nature. Rooms were cozy with electric blankets, beautiful views and food was good. Amazing service by the staff

Additional Considerations

If your fuel tank is small, then Jerry cans are available in Manali, pick one and the last fuel station is in Tandi, don't miss stocking fuel up there. At Jispa all fuel stations would be behind you

Day 11: A Daring Drive to Leh – Between Grit and Grace

3 June 2025

Morning started with concern. Our daughter had skipped both dinner and breakfast due to ongoing nausea from the altitude. She looked pale and remained unusually quiet. Alongside this, the unresolved DEF system warning on the car remained a source of stress. Before sleeping previous night, something had occured to me; both times the DEF error had happened, the car was parked on a slope. Since the DEF tank was only 60% full, it was possible the sensor couldn’t detect the fluid properly. So before I slept, I repositioned the car, parking it uphill. In the morning, we started the engine, and no DEF error appeared. Although the general system warning light remained on, no faults were flagged. Based on prior advice from the service center, we decided we will not switch off the engine throughout the drive and will take a chance. Even if error resurfaces it gives us a 400 km limit and distance to Leh was 350 kms. So we had margin for error. We started slightly later than planned, around 7 AM, and began our ascent from Jispa. The roads were lined with fresh snow from the previous night, and we drove cautiously to avoid icy patches and running meltwater. Though we didn’t need to engage 4x4, it helped knowing the option was available. The route varied widely snow-covered ridges, steep canyons, gravel surfaces, rocky passes, and eventually flat, wide plains. The scenery changed rapidly, and while we admired it, the priority remained steady progress. We stopped only twice—for water and a short break. At this altitude, above 15,000 feet, the symptoms of high-altitude exposure became obvious. All of us experienced fatigue, shortness of breath, and headaches. The children were visibly affected, low energy, pale faces—but we managed by rotating drivers and staying focused. At Tanglang La, the highest point on the route, the DEF warning had still not returned. But a new issue surfaced: a Service Transmission Error. The car locked into 4th gear and stopped shifting. I maintained a constant speed of 35–40 km/h and continued without stopping. Later, we learned the car had entered “Limp Home Mode,” a safety measure triggered by overheating—common under high-altitude driving with reduced cooling efficiency. The final stretch into Leh took two hours. We reached our hotel at 5 PM and switched off the engine after nearly 10 hours of continuous running. No further issues emerged. Dinner was simple—khichdi and hot soup—chosen more for comfort than appetite. We were physically and mentally exhausted, but the relief of having reached safely outweighed everything else. That night, we finally rested without any remaining uncertainties. The toughest day of our journey was behind us

Highlights

  • ✅ The Drive from Jispa to Leh passed through 6-7 types of terrains and was breathtaking
  • ✅ The mountains and the hillsides were covered in fresh snow
  • ✅ There was no traffic, but had enough cars and bikes through the way
  • ❌ While we didn't need it, there aren't enough food joints on the way. Stock up water
  • ❌ Road patch Sarchi from Pang was really bad. Around 80-100 kms
  • ❌ AMS started to show its effect as we crossed passes. Kids were reeling with headache and nausea
  • ❌ Everyone not feeling well through the journey added to the distress
  • ❌ Car errors with DEF error, transmission error and low tyre pressures

Photos

Accommodation

The Bodhi Tree

📍 The Bodhi Tree, Leh

Fantastic property, great deals on stay. Nice views and good service. Breakfast buffet, was not the best. Sea buckthorn juice was new introduction though.

Places to Eat

The Tibetan Kitchen

📍 The Tibetan Kitchen, Leh

Ask for Thupka and other local delicacies. Even Momos were delicious

Additional Considerations

No more fuel stations till Leh. So go back to Tandi if you have space in fuel tank. Start Dimox course 48 hours in advance to avoid sever AMS, for adults

Day 12: Slow Steps in Leh – Rest, Recovery & Quiet Joys

4 June 2025

After the long drive and the challenges of high-altitude travel, we deliberately kept our first day in Leh light and focused on recovery. The aim was to allow our bodies to adjust to the altitude and reduce physical stress. We had an early breakfast but didn’t rush into any activity. Most of us were still dealing with fatigue, headaches, and general discomfort from the previous day. Locals had recommended Sea Buckthorn juice as helpful for altitude adaptation, so we bought a few bottles and started incorporating it into our routine. While the rest of the group stayed back at the hotel to rest, I stepped out to inspect the car. Given the earlier transmission and DEF issues, I was expecting further problems. However, all system alerts had cleared. The dashboard showed no warnings, and the car appeared to be functioning normally. We also located a laundry service and dropped off clothes accumulated over several days of travel. The car was cleaned as well—both interior and exterior—after multiple days of snow, slush, and mountain dust. Since we were in acclimatisation mode, it was a good opportunity to handle permits. We applied for the Inner Line Permit through the official online portal. The process was simple: select the places to be visited, input group details, and make the payment. Applying before reaching Leh is possible and can save time on arrival. Later in the day, we visited The Tibetan Kitchen for lunch. The food was mild, nourishing, and suitable for recovery—Tibetan and Ladakhi dishes with simple ingredients and warm flavors. After lunch, we took a slow walk through Leh Market. The children explored shops, and we spent time observing the local crafts and relaxed pace of life. Around 6:30 PM, we took a short drive to Shanti Stupa. The road up provided clear views of Leh town and its surroundings. The stupa area was quiet and offered panoramic views of the mountains and valley. It was a calm end to a day that was intentionally kept minimal. Dinner was khichdi and soup again—easy on the stomach and suitable for rest. Day 12 served its purpose well: a day to reset, recover, and settle into the pace of Leh.

Highlights

  • ✅ Fantastic local food at The Tibetan Kitchen
  • ✅ Economic laundry at The Dobhi ghat. 24 hour wash and fold cycle
  • ✅ Slow day, leisurely stroll and beautilful views
  • ✅ Many car washes around city. Done in INR 400
  • ❌ Don’t blindly trust Google Maps! On our way back from the Stupa, it took us through some really narrow roads that clearly weren’t meant for cars.
  • ❌ Using AC as a heater excessively generated dry and hot air. This dehydrates you through the night and you wake up with an headache. Keep temperature comfortable but not excessively warm as well

Photos

Accommodation

The Bodhi Tree

📍 The Bodhi Tree, Leh

Fantastic property, great deals on stay. Nice views and good service. Breakfast buffet, was not the best. Sea buckthorn juice was new introduction though.

Additional Considerations

Just keep a day to relax and acclamatize. Leh seems to be strict about driving and parking. Look for public parking lots. You can park and walk. Also outside state Taxis and Self Drive may not be allowed in Leh/Ladhak region (except JK and LA numbers)

Day 13: Tributes, Trails & Tibetan Tales in Leh

5 June 2025

After two days of rest and acclimatization, we began Day 13 feeling ready to explore Leh in full. The plan for the day included visits to several key sites along with some local shopping. We started with the Hall of Fame, a museum dedicated to the Indian Army. It included detailed exhibits about the Kargil War and life at high-altitude postings such as Siachen Glacier. Conditions described included temperatures as low as -70°C, as well as daily risks like avalanches and crevasses. The visit was informative and left a strong impression on all of us. Next, we visited Magnetic Hill. While the commonly talked-about gravity illusion wasn’t particularly noticeable, we spent time nearby doing ATV rides through the surrounding desert terrain. It turned out to be one of the most enjoyable activities for both kids and adults. We then proceeded to the confluence of the Zanskar and Indus Rivers. The meeting point of the two rivers offered a scenic view, with contrasting water colors and steady wind. We spent some time by the banks, had Maggi noodles, and took a break before continuing. Our route passed the Gurudwara Pathar Sahib, followed by a visit to Likir Monastery. This is one of the older monasteries in the region, associated with local legends of protective serpents. The walk through the monastery was peaceful, with a nearby stream that kept the children engaged. Lunch that day was at a roadside restaurant. The food was basic and heavily spiced, and not particularly aligned with what we had hoped for. However, we continued with our plans and returned to the hotel for a short rest. In the evening, we visited Leh Palace. The building, seven to eight stories high, offered views of the surrounding area and a modest gallery with historical photos and art. A brief altercation with a group of motorcyclists created a short disruption, but we moved past it and headed to the market. Parking was easily available near the main bazaar. We spent some time shopping for souvenirs and picked up a few items from a Thangka art store. By the time we returned to the hotel, the market had begun closing for the day. Dinner was simple and had at the hotel. We also settled our hotel bill and began packing for our next destination: Pangong Tso Lake. The day was productive and balanced—covering key sites, moments of leisure, and preparation for the onward journey.

Highlights

  • ✅ A deeply moving and informative visit to the Hall of Fame
  • ✅ Thrilling ATV rides at Magnetic Hill – INR 1200 per pair, and totally worth it
  • ✅ Fascinating legends behind the ancient Likir Monastery
  • ✅ Souvenir shopping at the Ladakh Thangka Center, Main Bazaar Road, Leh
  • ❌ Underwhelming lunch experience near Nimmoo
  • ❌ Brief and avoidable run-in with bikers near Leh Palace

Photos

Accommodation

The Bodhi Tree

📍 The Bodhi Tree, Leh

Fantastic property, great deals on stay. Nice views and good service. Breakfast buffet, was not the best. Sea buckthorn juice was new introduction though.

Additional Considerations

Apply lots of sunscreen. Leh has the best food options. Plan your travel such that you have your major meals there. Dhobhi ghat laundry service will deliver washed and folded clothes in 24 hours. They may not take underclothes for women. Others will though

Day 14: Journey to Pangong Tso - Azure Dreams & Starlit Nights

6 June 2025

We started Day 14 early, focused on packing and organizing for the drive to Pangong Tso. Bags were loaded efficiently, and the vehicle was filled to capacity. Unlike previous mornings, the mood was calm—there were no car errors, the weather was clear, and everyone felt rested and prepared. Our route for the day included crossing Changla Pass. We left between 8:30 and 9:00 AM and followed mountain roads that offered scenic views throughout the ascent. For the initial part of the drive, we were behind an army convoy, which slowed our pace. Once we passed the convoy, the road cleared, allowing us to move at our own speed. Most travelers visit Nubra Valley before Pangong to help with altitude adjustment, but we had opted for the reverse. This meant a longer drive up front, but since we were already acclimatized, the route posed no major issues apart from occasional mild headaches. The descent from Changla brought a change in landscape—rolling hills, scattered rocks, and some wildlife, including small animals crossing the road and high-altitude cattle. Eventually, Pangong Tso came into view. The lake’s varying shades of blue and green were visible from a distance and made a strong first impression. Our accommodation was a cabin located near the lake. It was well-constructed and comfortable. For most of the afternoon, we were the only guests, which created a quiet atmosphere. A few other visitors arrived later, adding some activity to the surroundings. We spent time walking along the lake. Although the weather was cold, the sun was strong, so we used sunscreen and ate light snacks we had brought. Sunset was quick, with daylight fading rapidly behind the mountains. Dinner was served in a shared dining area. Afterward, we returned to our cabin, which was warm and insulated, with large windows and a skylight. As the night progressed, the temperature dropped to -4°C. The room lacked ventilation, which led to headaches due to low oxygen levels. We turned on the oxygen concentrator provided, which helped within a few minutes. Around 3 AM, we looked out to find a clear night sky filled with stars. Although we didn’t go outside, the view through the window was striking. Electricity at the property was available only from 6 PM to midnight through a generator, but we had enough battery backup for essentials. Overall, Pangong Tso offered a peaceful experience with minimal infrastructure but high natural value. It was a quiet, scenic break and a good balance of rest and travel.

Highlights

  • ✅ Well designed and furnished Cabin by Desert Blue
  • ✅ The shifting colors of the lake. Unbelievable
  • ✅ Glimpse of the night sky
  • ❌ Missed planning for proper ventilation before going to sleep in the night
  • ❌ Missed watching night sky properly
  • ❌ Harsh Sun despite it being cold

Photos

Accommodation

Desert Blue Pangong Camps

📍 Desert Blue, Pangong Tso

Well-designed cabins with skylight, comfortable beds and good amenities. Limited electricity hours but peaceful lakeside location. Oxygen concentrator provided for altitude comfort. The Desert Blue cabin was very expensive, so despite a good experoence, I wouldn't call it value for moeny

Additional Considerations

Sunscreen, sunscreen & sunscreen. Ensure ventilation in night when you go to sleep, when room is air tight. Don't overuse oxygen concentrator to loose acclamatization. Lot of mountain workers will ask for food and water as you drive to Pangong Tso. Carry extra water and food if you intend to disribute

Day 15: Pangong to Nubra - Rivers, Rocks & Starlit Revelations

7 June 2025

We began Day 15 with a relaxed start, expecting a relatively short and manageable drive to Nubra. However, the route options required some decision-making. The first route looped back through Leh—safe but unnecessarily long. The second option, via Tangtse and along the Shyok River, was more direct and scenic but came with warnings about rough terrain and potential landslides. It also had the only available fuel stop in the area. We opted for this route. The drive along the Shyok River offered beautiful views. The river ran parallel for much of the journey, and we stopped a few times to rest and enjoy the surroundings. However, the route included sections affected by past landslides, which diverted us onto dry riverbeds and uneven paths. These stretches were challenging but manageable, especially since the monsoon had not yet begun. What was expected to be a short journey extended to about 5–6 hours due to the road conditions. There were no notable places to eat along the way, so we continued without breaks for food. We eventually arrived at Lchang Nang Retreat, a sustainable property located in a quiet part of Nubra Valley. The resort featured an organic kitchen garden, panoramic views of the Trans-Himalayan and Karakoram ranges, and a restaurant that exceeded expectations. Lunch was excellent and much needed after the long drive. Lchang Nang is about 45 minutes from popular spots like Diskit and Hunder, which makes it slightly less convenient for daily outings. However, the quality of the stay made up for the distance. Later in the day, we visited the Panamik hot springs, which took about an hour to reach. The route was peaceful and relatively isolated. On the return, we visited the Himalayan Desert Adventure Camp near Diskit to assess a 2 km zipline. While the activity sounded interesting, the safety arrangements and overall experience didn’t seem convincing. The quoted price of ₹2500 per person also felt steep, so we chose not to participate. Instead, we returned to the familiar ATV rides. This time, the route and handling setup were slightly different and better organized. The cost was ₹1500 for one adult and one child, and the experience was enjoyable, particularly across the sand dunes. Back at Lchang Nang, we spent time walking through the property and appreciating the mountain setting. Dinner again was excellent. Before sleeping, we set an alarm for 2:00 AM to view the night sky. The visibility was excellent, with clear views of stars, constellations, and even parts of the Milky Way. It was a quiet and memorable end to the day. We went to bed physically tired but satisfied, having experienced a mix of terrain, activity, and natural beauty..

Highlights

  • ✅ Drive to Nubra from Panging Tso (Shyok Route via Durbuk–Shyok–Agham)
  • ✅ Filling fuel at Tangtse Petrol Station (The only one in the area, may require detour)
  • ✅ The Stargazing at 2 am in the night
  • ✅ The fantastic lunch and dinner at Lchangnag Retreat
  • ✅ ATV Ride for INR 1500 (1 adult + 1 child) at The Great Himalayan Adventure Park, Diskit
  • ❌ Road destroyed by Landslides, so having to go off-road. In a way it was fun as well, but slowed us down

Photos

Accommodation

Lchang Nang Retreat

📍 Lchang Nang Retreat, Nubra

A fully sustainable eco-stay featuring an organic kitchen garden, offering stunning views of the Trans-Himalayan and Karakoram ranges. The food is exceptional, and the atmosphere is serene—ideal for unwinding. The only drawback is its location, about 45 minutes away from Diskit and Hunder attractions and it is a bit on the expensive side

Additional Considerations

Prefer staying on Diskit and Hunder side if you plan to visit Turtuk. Did not find many good food options. If you are near LChang Nang, then their restaurant is pretty nice. If you are travelling from Pangong Tso via Durbuk, then be prepared for off-roading

Day 16: Nubra Valley Adventures - Camels, Monasteries & Desert Dreams

8 June 2025

With two nights planned in Nubra, we kept Day 16 focused on local exploration and light activity. Initially, we considered visiting Turtuk—a village near the India-Pakistan border known for its Balti culture and cuisine. However, the six-hour round trip felt too demanding at this point in the trip, especially with limited energy and a long journey ahead the next day. We chose to rest instead. The morning was unhurried. We spent time within the peaceful setting of Lchang Nang Retreat, enjoying the fresh air and quiet surroundings. By midday, we left for local sightseeing. Our first stop was Diskit Monastery, the oldest and largest monastery in Nubra Valley, dating back to the 14th century. We explored its halls and temple rooms, observing Buddhist teachings depicted through murals and statues. The monastery also featured references to Tara in her various forms, the Maitreya Buddha, and Jataka tales—many of which were familiar from earlier reading. Adjacent to the monastery is a 106-foot statue of Maitreya Buddha, offering panoramic views over the valley. The children engaged with the prayer wheels while we took in the calm and setting. For lunch, we initially stopped at a small riverside restaurant near Hunder. The complete lack of other diners raised concerns about freshness, so we chose to continue. We found another restaurant serving Kashmiri cuisine that had a decent crowd and turned out to be a good decision. After lunch, we visited the sand dunes in Hunder. The area was loosely organized and somewhat crowded, but the main attraction—the double-humped Bactrian camels—was a highlight for the children. While we were mindful of ethical considerations, we allowed the camel ride for the children, who enjoyed the experience. Following the ride, we spent some time climbing the dunes, taking photos, and relaxing in the fading afternoon light. The landscape offered good sunset views, with warm tones across the valley. We returned to the hotel in the early evening and opted for an early dinner. With a long drive to Srinagar scheduled for the next day—nearly 500 kilometers and over 13 hours—we planned to leave before sunrise. Day 16 served as a quieter segment of the journey, providing time for cultural visits, light adventure, and preparation for the demanding travel ahead.

Highlights

  • ✅ Camel safari on double-humped Bactrian camels in Hunder sand dunes
  • ✅ Visit to ancient Diskit Monastery with panoramic valley views
  • ✅ Exploring traditional Ladakhi villages and local culture
  • ✅ Spectacular sunset over the Nubra Valley desert landscape
  • ✅ Photography opportunities with unique desert-mountain combination

Photos

Accommodation

Lchang Nang Retreat

📍 Lchang Nang Retreat, Nubra

A fully sustainable eco-stay featuring an organic kitchen garden, offering stunning views of the Trans-Himalayan and Karakoram ranges. The food is exceptional, and the atmosphere is serene—ideal for unwinding. The only drawback is its location, about 45 minutes away from Diskit and Hunder attractions

Additional Considerations

Road back to Leh was still being constructed, so bad patches. Drive to Srinagar is going to be fairly long. If you want to break the drive, do it at Kargil. They are a decent place for a midsway stop

Day 17: The Long Drive - Nubra to Srinagar via Khardung La

9 June 2025

Day 17 was planned as our longest drive of the trip, so we started early at 6:30 AM. The children were still drowsy as we packed the car and set off for Srinagar. The initial part of the route took us over Khardung La toward Leh. Although the views were scenic, the climb made our daughter nauseous, so we had to take several unplanned breaks. The road conditions between Nubra and Leh were mixed—some smooth stretches, others under construction. We reached Leh between 10:30 and 11:00 AM and encountered significant city traffic, which took nearly an hour to get through. Once past Leh, the landscape began to change. About three hours later, the desert terrain gave way to green hills and flowing rivers. We reached Kargil around 3:00 PM and made a short stop at PitStop, a roadside café located near an unused bridge, where we had tea and rested briefly. The drive continued without issues until we reached the toll gate near Zojila Pass. From this point onward, the road deteriorated significantly. The terrain was rough and slow-moving. The newly built Sonmarg tunnel was a major relief, offering improved road quality and saving time. As we approached Srinagar, we encountered a heavy traffic jam. A stretch of approximately 40–50 km was estimated to take up to three hours. Our initial arrival estimate of 5:30–6:00 PM kept getting pushed back. Eventually, we took a detour recommended by Google Maps, which redirected us through village roads on the outskirts of the city. This route felt uncomfortable due to the absence of lighting and the general isolation, particularly given recent unrest in the region. At one point, we were stopped by army personnel. They advised us to stay on the main highway but allowed us to continue. We eventually reached our hotel in Srinagar at 9:30 PM after 15–16 hours of driving. The hotel dinner was average, but we were too tired to care. After hot showers, we went straight to bed. With three more days left in Srinagar, we decided to rest and recover the following day. The day had been long and tiring but brought us to the final major stop of our journey..

Highlights

  • ✅ Weather and beauty of Sonmarg as we passed by
  • ✅ Well engineered Sonmarg Tunnel
  • ✅ Drive and terrain between Leh and Srinagar
  • ❌ Far too long a drive for a single day
  • ❌ Road through Khardungla and Zojilla pass
  • ❌ Traffic before Srinagar due to recent Eid holidays and military checkpoints

Photos

Accommodation

Four Points Shereton, Srinagar

📍 Four Points Shereton, Srinagar

Located in city center so close to most places. Just a stand alone building with decent rooms. Restaurants was not great, neither was restaurant service. It felt like there was severe cost cutting. Overall decent for a short business stay, won't recommend for vacation. Charged 3000 INR per day for extra matress. Discounted it for 2 days when we complained about it being 60% of the room cost itself. Would have given it 3 stars but due to exorbitant pricing for extra matress not at all value for money for us

Places to Eat

Samyas Garden Restaurant

📍 Samyas Garden Restaurant, Khalsi

Fresh tandoori rotis and decently prepared food. Fresh and quite delicious. Good pitstop for lunch

Additional Considerations

Account for some delays in Zojilla pass as well as traffic in Srinagar

Day 18: Exploring the Beauty of Kashmir - Srinagar Sightseeing

10 June 2025

After the exhausting 15-hour drive the previous day, we decided to take it slow and explore the beautiful city of Srinagar at a leisurely pace. The day was dedicated to discovering the famous attractions of Kashmir’s summer capital. We visited the stunning Pari Mahal, also known as the ‘Palace of Fairies’, which offered breathtaking panoramic views of Dal Lake and the surrounding mountains. It had a multi-level terraced garden. Not too far was Chashme Shahi. We also took a peaceful shikara ride on Dal Lake in eveving, gliding through the waters visited the lake bazaar on the lake. Other Shikaras selling food, souverniers were a bit too much. Only if there was a way to avoid them. The day included lunch at Adhoo’s restaurant. We tried Trami, a traditional thali with mutton dishes. It was a fantastic set of dishes, could have been shared by 2 people but the restaurant won’t allow. Finally ended the day with a bit of shopping on the main street for dry fruits and clothes. Don’t recommend buying dry fruits like Walnuts and almonds unless you know someone, most shops were cheating with bad quality product. We later saw bad reviews all around where people were shown something and were given something else. This was especially true for Nishat dry fruits.

Highlights

  • ✅ Visited Pari Mahal with stunning views of Dal Lake and mountains
  • ✅ Peaceful shikara ride on the famous Dal Lake
  • ✅ Explored traditional Kashmiri culture and local cuisine - Trami
  • ✅ Shopping and stroll through the main market - Residency Road
  • ❌ Cheated by Nishat dry fruits with bad quality product given

Photos

Accommodation

Four Points Shereton, Srinagar

📍 Four Points Shereton, Srinagar

Located in city center so close to most places. Just a stand alone building with decent rooms. Restaurants was not great, neither was restaurant service. It felt like there was severe cost cutting. Overall decent for a short business stay, won't recommend for vacation. Charged 3000 INR per day for extra matress. Discounted it for 2 days when we complained about it being 60% of the room cost itself. Would have given it 3 stars but due to exorbitant pricing for extra matress not at all value for money for us

Places to Eat

Ahdoo's Restaurant, Residency Road

📍 Ahdoo's Restaurant, Residency Road Srinagar

The traditional Trami thali, if you are ok with mutton. It is too much for one person and a bit expensive, but highly recommended

Crème by Ahdoos, Srinagar

📍 Crème by Ahdoos, Srinagar

Absolutely must try fresh Desserts, biscuits and cakes

Additional Considerations

When you shop be careful. Dry fruit and spices experience was not great. Shown something else and given something else. Reviews were same all around. Buy from recommendations and check product after being packed

Day 19: Gondolas, Greenery, and Gulmarg Glimpses

11 June 2025

After taking a slow day to rest, we were ready for a short drive to Gulmarg. We left early to avoid traffic and long queues at the Gulmarg Gondola. The plan was to take the cable car to both Phase I and II and enjoy the views. We started around 7 am and managed to skip most of the city traffic. The drive took about 2–3 hours, and we reached Gulmarg by 9:30 am. It was not crowded, and many guides kept pestering us, even blocking the road near the parking area, falsely claiming that private cars weren’t allowed unless you hired a guide. We ignored them and walked directly to the Gondola station. Surprisingly, there were no queues, and we got tickets on the spot—a rare thing, as people usually line up from 5 am. We took the Gondola all the way to the top. The views were nice—blue skies, a chill in the air, and some snow—but honestly, after seeing Leh, it didn’t feel that special. We tried snow sledging, which turned out to be a bad decision. The snow was more slush than snow, and dragging the sled uphill was tough. It cost ₹1000 per person, and the ride down lasted just a few seconds. It was uncomfortable and not worth the effort—maybe better in peak winter, but definitely not now. As the place got more crowded, we enjoyed the views, had some overpriced Maggi, and rode the cable car back down. The best part of the whole visit was the Gondola ride itself. Next, we visited the Valley of Strawberries. After crossing a small stream—which was fun but a bit tricky—we found a shaded spot, sat down, and took in the views. We stayed for about an hour before deciding to head back to Srinagar for lunch. We went to a popular restaurant called Stream, right across from Dal Lake. The food was delicious and the setting felt authentic. We ate to our heart’s content and then took some rest. In the evening, we visited Nishat Garden. It was peaceful, full of greenery, birds chirping, and kids playing. After that, we did a bit of shopping nearby and treated ourselves to dessert at Ahdoos, followed by a stroll through the Residency Road market. That wrapped up our Day 19—with a mix of sightseeing, local experiences, and some great food. We returned to the hotel and quickly drifted off to sleep.

Highlights

  • ✅ Absent queues and crowds at Gandola
  • ✅ Lunch at Stream restaurant
  • ✅ Market stroll on Residency Road
  • ✅ Gulmarg - Valley of strawberries
  • ❌ Sledging in Gulmarg
  • ❌ Constant harrassment by local guides and service providers

Photos

Accommodation

Four Points Shereton, Srinagar

📍 Four Points Shereton, Srinagar

Located in city center so close to most places. Just a stand alone building with decent rooms. Restaurants was not great, neither was restaurant service. It felt like there was severe cost cutting. Overall decent for a short business stay, won't recommend for vacation. Charged 3000 INR per day for extra matress. Discounted it for 2 days when we complained about it being 60% of the room cost itself. Would have given it 3 stars but due to exorbitant pricing for extra matress not at all value for money for us

Places to Eat

Stream Restaurant, Srinagar

📍 Stream Restaurant, Srinagar

Authentic local food and nice ambience. Try chicken and mutton dishes

Additional Considerations

Take feedback for activity like snow skiing, sledging etc from others in Gulmarg before you try it. If it is not peak tourist season you can drive upto Gandola office and park nearby.

Day 20: A Gentle Goodbye: Sonmarg Riverbanks, Rest, and One Last Ahdoos Feast

12 June 2025

This was our last day in Srinagar before we began our drive back to Chandigarh. In the morning, our daughter wasn’t feeling well—we suspected it was due to dehydration or a weak stomach. After some discussion, we decided to go ahead with a short visit to Sonmarg, keeping in mind whether the kids were up for the trek to Thajiwas Glacier. We talked it over with them and agreed that they could take horses while the two of us would walk. The drive to Sonmarg took about 2–3 hours. After passing through the Sonmarg tunnel, we stopped just beyond the exit. Following a chat with the security staff, we took a narrow path that led down from the tunnel exit and did a bit of off-roading. We parked near the river, dipped our feet in the water, and enjoyed the crisp mountain air under the bright sun. After relaxing by the river for about an hour, we decided it was time for lunch. We searched for a good place to eat, but since it was off-season, most of the popular restaurants had limited food options, and the smaller ones seemed unreliable and overly spicy. With our daughter still feeling unwell, we played it safe and grabbed a quick, light meal. We had originally planned to do the glacier trek after lunch, but her condition worsened, and we felt it was best to head back to Srinagar to rest, especially with a long drive ahead the next day. We returned to the hotel and spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in the room. In the evening, we stepped out for one last dinner at Ahdoos and ordered à la carte. As always, the food was excellent. We took a short walk around the market afterward and then began packing for the journey ahead. And just like that, our time in Srinagar came to an end.

Highlights

  • ✅ Sonmarg Tunnel - An engineering marvel
  • ✅ Dinner and desserts at Adhoo's
  • ❌ Health issues with kids
  • ❌ Abandoning our trek to Thajiwas glaciar

Photos

Accommodation

Four Points Shereton, Srinagar

📍 Four Points Shereton, Srinagar

Located in city center so close to most places. Just a stand alone building with decent rooms. Restaurants was not great, neither was restaurant service. It felt like there was severe cost cutting. Overall decent for a short business stay, won't recommend for vacation. Charged 3000 INR per day for extra matress. Discounted it for 2 days when we complained about it being 60% of the room cost itself. Would have given it 3 stars but due to exorbitant pricing for extra matress not at all value for money for us

Additional Considerations

Plan for lunch ahead of time in Sonmarg, we didn't find good options. We heard that all the horse rides go up and down Thajiwas glaciar the same route, however thre is a longer walking trek that is more scenic for the way back. We suggest exploring that if you go up on foot.

Day 21: The Final Stretch: Srinagar to Chandigarh - A Long Drive Home

13 June 2025

Day 21 was our last long drive—from Srinagar to Chandigarh. We started early at 7 am, expecting a relatively smooth journey. For most of the route, we followed NH44, except for a stretch between Udhampur and Chak Dayala. That part of the road wasn’t in great shape, with varying surface quality, but Google Maps suggested it as it shortened the distance compared to the longer route via Jammu. Up to Udhampur, the road was under heavy construction and quite rough. Luckily, we avoided a two-hour traffic jam by skipping the bypass and driving through a nearby town. Along NH44, we passed several long tunnels, some as long as 6–7 kilometers. We were impressed by the scale of construction and the engineering efforts to carve through the mountains. At the same time, it was a little disheartening to see the ecological disruption caused by such development. After Phagwara, we left NH44 and spent the last hour and a half on state roads, dealing with traffic jams and diversions. We reached Chandigarh around 7 pm. For lunch, we stopped at a Haldiram’s just after Sujanpur—it didn’t show up on Google Maps, which was surprising. The food was average and caused acidity for most of us. While it seemed like the better option at the time, it wasn’t good enough to recommend. The drive took nearly 12 hours and marked the end of our road trip. After reaching Chandigarh, we decided to grab a bite and explore the city’s street food before checking into the hotel — and honestly, it turned out to be the best decision! A quick Google search led us to Sector 34C, and as soon as we arrived, the tempting aroma from the food stalls made us feel hungry even though we weren’t (at least, that’s what we thought).We kicked things off with pani puri and tikki chaat from Ram Chaat Bhandar (Ambale Wale) — saying it didn’t disappoint would be a huge understatement. Next up was a cheesy delight from a local pizza stall, followed by a colourful ice gola from the same shop. We really wished we had a little more room to try the momos from Toshib, which looked super popular and was drawing quite a crowd. Finally, a refreshing lemon soda wrapped up our lip-smacking dinner, and with happy hearts and fuller stomachs, we headed to the hotel to call it a night. Unfortunately, our stay at Radisson didn’t go well. The air conditioning wasn’t working in peak summer, and the front desk staff showed little concern. No one came to check until 11 pm, and only after I went down and complained in person. Even then, they just increased the fan speed. We were too exhausted to push further, so we made do with the fan and we went to sleep.

Highlights

  • ✅ Series of tunnels on NH44
  • ✅ Super street food at sector 34 in Chandigarh
  • ❌ Construction and bad roads until Chak Darya
  • ❌ Service at Radisson Zirakpur

Photos

Accommodation

Radisson Hotel, Zirakpur Chandigarh

📍 Radisson Hotel, Zirakpur Chandigarh

Poor service experience on this stay. AC was not working in peak summer and front desk was unempathetic. No one came to look at the issue until 11pm after actively complaining. Even then, they just increased fan speed. Too tired to complain further but disappointing end to our journey.

Additional Considerations

Start early for NH44 and be prepared for bad traffic and bad roads till Chak Daraya. Haldiram is near Sujanpur however not a recommended place for food. There are other good options at this stop though.

Day 22: Homeward Bound: The Final Chapter of an Unforgettable Journey

14 June 2025

Day 22 was the final day of our journey. We had a slow, relaxed start and had breakfast at the hotel, which was much better than our previous stay at the same place. We then dropped off our car with Agarwal Movers and Packers. It cost us around ₹30,000 to ship it from Chandigarh to Bangalore. While slightly more expensive than other options, we’ve had good experiences with them in the past. (And as I write this, I’m happy to share that the car reached Bangalore safely in about 11 days—exactly as promised). After that, we took a taxi to the airport with all our luggage. Chandigarh airport is quite small, so there wasn’t much to do. We had a quick bite in the lounge and boarded our flight. By 9:30 pm on June 14th, we were finally home. We cleaned up and went to bed—tired, content, and full of memories from an amazing trip. Over the next few days, we were still in a bit of a trip hangover, reminiscing about the fun we had and the constant planning and re-planning we’d grown used to. It was truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience—and now, we wait for our next adventure.

Highlights

  • ✅ Drop off process at Agarwal Movers and Packers
  • ❌ Lounge at Chandigarh airport
  • ❌ Trip came to an end

Photos

Final kilometers reading on our car after the incredible journey

Final kilometers reading on our car after the incredible journey

Dropping off our faithful car at Agarwal Movers and Packers for shipping back to Bangalore

Dropping off our faithful car at Agarwal Movers and Packers for shipping back to Bangalore

All packed up with our luggage ready for the journey home

All packed up with our luggage ready for the journey home

Finally back home at Bangalore airport - the end of our amazing 22-day adventure

Finally back home at Bangalore airport - the end of our amazing 22-day adventure

Additional Considerations

Along with car shipping, Agarwal movers and packers were happy to take some lugguage in the car, which helped as it reduced our flight lugguage