Road trip - Thanjavur & Kumbakonam
A short weekend escape where we stepped back into the Chola Kingdom’s past — walking through their magnificent temples, marveling at the architecture, and soaking in stories, both mythical and real, that brought history alive
A 3-day weekend trip took us through Kumbakonam, Thanjavur, and nearby towns, where we explored the magnificent architectural legacy of the Cholas. Some temples were still alive with daily prayers, while others stood as UNESCO heritage sites drawing tourists from everywhere. We wandered through temple walls, gardens, ancient wells, and tanks, discovered local food havens and art corners, and delighted in the mythical tales that added a touch of mystery and fun to our journey.
Driving route
🚗 Onward - Bengaluru -> Hosur -> Krishnagiri -> Tiruvannamalai -> Virudhachalam -> Swamimalai
🚗 Return - Swamimalai -> Salem -> Dharmapuri -> Krishnagiri -> Hosur -> Bengaluru
Day-by-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Reaching our unique Hotel in Swamimalai - INDeco
15 Aug 2025
The day began early, alarms rang at 4 am, and by 4:45 we were on the road. The excitement of the trip was quickly tested by the heavy traffic around Hosur and Krishnagiri, which slowed us down. To make up for it, we stopped at Murugan Idli, where fluffy podi idlis and a sweet bowl of pongal set the perfect tone for the journey. After Krishnagiri, we took a two-lane highway. The road was manageable but required constant focus since there were no dividers. A tender coconut break and a quick fuel stop later, we drove straight to our stay for the weekend; Indeco Resort, Swamimalai. The resort itself was a destination. Built by Steve Borgia and his family, it blends a recreated village, a museum, and a resort into one experience, while generating employment for the local community. The lunch spread was a hearty mix of local dishes and a few North Indian flavors, after which we gave ourselves a short rest. The evening was all about exploration and fun. The kids first ran under a strong gush of water from the irrigation pump meant for the fields, and later cooled off in the pool. A savory local drink, somewhere between buttermilk and soup, refreshed us before we set out for more activities. A bullock cart ride through the property was followed by a guided tour, where stories of the resort’s unique origin came alive. We learned how the central reception hall had been relocated from Chennai after losing a case to real-estate developers, and how an underground tunnel was discovered during construction — one that once connected to an old weapons factory, possibly dating back to the Cholas. Though now flooded with Cauvery water, peeking into it was like looking into a slice of buried history. As night fell, we drove into Kumbakonam for dinner at Mangalambiga, a simple eatery that surprised us with its flavors. From rava onion dosa and Adai Aviyal to poori with aloo masala, topped off with an unforgettable filter coffee — it was the perfect end to a long first day. The drive from Bangalore to Kumbakonam took about 7.5 to 8 hours in all, and though tiring, it felt rewarding. We returned to the resort full, happy, and ready for the adventures of Day Two.
Highlights
- ✅ Amazing breakfast at Murugan Idli
- ✅ The hotel that doubled down as a meuseum as well
- ❌ Bad early morning traffic jams and road construction until Krishnagiri
- ❌ Two lane highways without divider, requiring more streneous driving
Photos
Playing tetris with the luggage in the boot
Kickstarting our trip at 4:45 am from Bangalore
Noting the values on the odometer before commencing the trip
The famous Big Mishra Pedas at Dharwad
Mutton Thali at Manas Restobar after Satara
Mutton Thali at Manas Restobar after Satara
Mutton Thali at Manas Restobar after Satara
Mutton Thali at Manas Restobar after Satara
Mutton Thali at Manas Restobar after Satara
Accommodation
Indeco
A unique blend between traditional and modern. Equipped with history, essential comforts and yet taking an approach of more traditional setting by evolving villages into a modern day resort generating local employment and livlihood on multiple fronts
Places to Eat
Murugan Idli
Famous for their soft, Podi idlis among other delicacies like Sweet Pongal. Both are a must try
Mangalambiga
📍 Sri Mangalambika Vilas Coffee Hotel (Since 1914), Kumbakonam
Famous for their Adai Aviyal, Filter coffee and other local delicacies
Additional Considerations
Start early (4:00 - 5:00 AM) to avoid heavy traffic while exiting bangalore especially since road construction is going on (Was under construction at the time of this writing in August 2025)