Road trip - Thanjavur & Kumbakonam
A short weekend escape where we stepped back into the Chola Kingdom’s past — walking through their magnificent temples, marveling at the architecture, and soaking in stories, both mythical and real, that brought history alive
A 3-day weekend trip took us through Kumbakonam, Thanjavur, and nearby towns, where we explored the magnificent architectural legacy of the Cholas. Some temples were still alive with daily prayers, while others stood as UNESCO heritage sites drawing tourists from everywhere. We wandered through temple walls, gardens, ancient wells, and tanks, discovered local food havens and art corners, and delighted in the mythical tales that added a touch of mystery and fun to our journey.
Driving route
🚗 Onward - Bengaluru -> Hosur -> Krishnagiri -> Tiruvannamalai -> Virudhachalam -> Swamimalai
🚗 Return - Swamimalai -> Salem -> Dharmapuri -> Krishnagiri -> Hosur -> Bengaluru
Day-by-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Reaching our unique Hotel in Swamimalai - INDeco
15 Aug 2025
The day began early, alarms rang at 4 am, and by 4:45 we were on the road. The excitement of the trip was quickly tested by the heavy traffic around Hosur and Krishnagiri, which slowed us down. To make up for it, we stopped at Murugan Idli, where fluffy podi idlis and a sweet bowl of pongal set the perfect tone for the journey. After Krishnagiri, we took a two-lane highway. The road was manageable but required constant focus since there were no dividers. A tender coconut break and a quick fuel stop later, we drove straight to our stay for the weekend. Along the way we found temples that looked vibrant in colors with unusual idols like that of animals and policeman etc. We took a stop at one such temple and found that these are temples dedicated to Ayannar diety. He is known to patrol and protect villages on white horse in the night. These temples are often open air temples on the periphery of the villages away from other temples. During festivities animal sacrifice is done at these temples (chicken more commonly now) or terracotta horses are made as offerings. Historically it is said that these were local pre-vedic dieties that overtime got merged with Hindu gods and godesses. After a brief inspection and curiosity we continued to Indeco Resort, Swamimalai. The resort itself was a destination. Built by Steve Borgia and his family, it blends a recreated village, a museum, and a resort into one experience, while generating employment for the local community. The lunch spread was a hearty mix of local dishes and a few North Indian flavors, after which we gave ourselves a short rest. The evening was all about exploration and fun. The kids first ran under a strong gush of water from the irrigation pump meant for the fields, and later cooled off in the pool. A savory local drink, somewhere between buttermilk and soup, refreshed us before we set out for more activities. A bullock cart ride through the property was followed by a guided tour, where stories of the resort’s unique origin came alive. We learned how the central reception hall had been relocated from Chennai after losing a case to real-estate developers, and how an underground tunnel was discovered during construction — one that once connected to an old weapons factory, possibly dating back to the Cholas. Though now flooded with Cauvery water, peeking into it was like looking into a slice of buried history. As night fell, we drove into Kumbakonam for dinner at Mangalambiga, a simple eatery that surprised us with its flavors. From rava onion dosa and Adai Aviyal to poori with aloo masala, topped off with an unforgettable filter coffee — it was the perfect end to a long first day. The drive from Bangalore to Kumbakonam took about 7.5 to 8 hours in all, and though tiring, it felt rewarding. We returned to the resort full, happy, and ready for the adventures of Day Two.
Highlights
- ✅ Amazing breakfast at Murugan Idli
- ✅ The hotel that doubled down as a meuseum as well
- ❌ Bad early morning traffic jams and road construction until Krishnagiri
- ❌ Two lane highways without divider, requiring more streneous driving
Photos
Animal sacrifice temple in Tamil Nadu
Animal sacrifice temple in Tamil Nadu
Some collected antiques and artifacts at the IndEco resort
Some collected antiques and artifacts at the IndEco resort
Bullock cart getting ready for an evening ride for adults and kids
A general view of the resort rooms from the height
The cottages/rooms at the resort setup in traditional style
Dinner place in Kumbakonam
A general view of the resort that was possibly a village street before it was rennovated
Accommodation
Indeco
A unique blend between traditional and modern. Equipped with history, essential comforts and yet taking an approach of more traditional setting by evolving villages into a modern day resort generating local employment and livlihood on multiple fronts
Places to Eat
Murugan Idli
Famous for their soft, Podi idlis among other delicacies like Sweet Pongal. Both are a must try
Mangalambiga
📍 Sri Mangalambika Vilas Coffee Hotel (Since 1914), Kumbakonam
Famous for their Adai Aviyal, Filter coffee and other local delicacies
Additional Considerations
Start early (4:00 - 5:00 AM) to avoid heavy traffic while exiting bangalore especially since road construction is going on (Was under construction at the time of this writing in August 2025)
Day 2: Temples, Legends & Living Craft
16 Aug 2025
We began early, leaving the hotel at 6 am, determined to cover two of the Chola dynasty’s greatest gifts to architecture.
Gangaikonda Cholapuram – The Son’s Masterpiece
Our first stop was Brihadisvara Temple at Gangaikonda Cholapuram, built by Rajendra I. History says he wanted to outdo his father, the mighty Rajaraja Chola, who had created the grand temple at Thanjavur. Rajendra’s version, though slightly shorter, is celebrated for its elegance and intricate detailing. The sculpted walls tell stories of gods, warriors, and cosmic legends — each stone almost whispering the ambition of a son to match and surpass his father’s legacy. It is also believed that Rajendra brought water from the sacred Ganga after his northern conquests and poured it into the temple’s tank, earning the place its name, “Gangaikonda Cholapuram” — the city of the Chola who brought the Ganga.
Brihadisvara Temple, Thanjavur – The Father’s Icon
From there, we rushed to Brihadisvara Temple in Thanjavur, just in time before the gates closed at 12:30 pm. This temple, commissioned by Rajaraja Chola I, is the grander of the two in scale and design. Locals believe the towering vimana (gopuram) is so ingeniously built that its shadow never falls on the ground — a feat that continues to puzzle visitors. Inside, one of the most endearing rituals is the simple act of whispering into the ears of the giant stone Nandi that faces the sanctum. Devotees believe that if Nandi hears your wish, he carries it straight to Lord Shiva. Watching people lean close, murmuring their hopes into stone, was as captivating as the temple’s architecture itself. There are also whispers of secret passages and hidden chambers beneath the temple, some said to store royal treasures or military stockpiles. Though sealed long ago, these legends add a layer of mystery, reminding you that what you see may only be a part of what these temples hold.
Lunch & Local Crafts
By afternoon, hunger pulled us to Sree Ariya Bhavan in Thanjavur. The thali, though leaning touristy, was still satisfying, a wholesome spread of curries, rice, and sweets. Afterward, we browsed Thanjavur’s famed dancing dolls and brassware, before heading to a small brass factory. Here, artisans demonstrated the centuries-old process of casting idols; making molds, pouring molten metal, cooling, and chiseling the final form. Watching fire, earth, and human skill combine to create sacred icons was humbling. A living craft that still thrives in these temple towns. Evening in Kumbakonam We returned to the resort for a short rest, before heading into Kumbakonam for dinner at Anand Bhavan. The food was simple, not memorable, but after a day spent tracing history, myth, and craft, it hardly mattered.
Highlights
- ✅ The stories and the architecture associated to the temples
- ✅ Thanjavur dolls and brass idol making tour
- ❌ Crowd at Brihadeshwara Temple - Thanjavur
Photos
Beautiful facade of Brihadisvara temple at Cholagangaikota
Beautiful facade of Brihadisvara temple at Cholagangaikota
Scultures inside Brihadisvara temple at Cholagangaikota
Beautiful facade of Brihadisvara temple at Cholagangaikota
A huge Nandi statue at Brihadisvara temple at Cholagangaikota
Brihadisvara temple at Thanjavur
Crowd at Brihadisvara temple at Thanjavur
Brihadisvara temple at Thanjavur
Brihadisvara temple at Thanjavur
The food thali at Sree Ariya Bhavan
The stairs centrally located in the museum to access the upper floors
An Urli decorated with flower petals
A wax statue to create a mould with clay. by wrapping clay around it
Using fire and heat to shape the figure required to create the mould
A ganesha statue out of a mould once it has cooled down. Next it would be chisled, shaped and polished
The collection of beautiful statues made of bronze at the factory
Accommodation
Indeco
A unique blend between traditional and modern. Equipped with history, essential comforts and yet taking an approach of more traditional setting by evolving villages into a modern day resort generating local employment and livlihood on multiple fronts
Places to Eat
Sree Ariya Bhavan (Authentic Veg - Since 1964)
📍 Sree Ariya Bhavan (Authentic Veg - Since 1964) Near Junction, Plot 2981 Gandhiji road, Thanjavur
A good thali for tourist along with mix of local cuisines. The coconut based sweet dish and the corriander soup were fantastic among other delicacies. It can be tried, and it is not too far away from the Thanjavur temple. A quick 10 minutes auto ride should get you there. We recommend this as the pit stop for lunch before you continue exploring
Additional Considerations
While Brihadeshwara temple in gangaikonda cholapuram remains open through the day, the Brihadeshwara temple in Thanjavur closes at 12:30 pm and reopens in evening. Plan your temple visit accordingly. The Thanjavur temple is also lot more crowded and it is suggested you do it earlier to beat the crowd
Day 3: Temples, Tales & The Journey Home
17 Aug 2025
We began our final day a little later than usual, setting out around 9:30 am. Our first stop was the stunning Airavatesvara Temple at Darasuram, a true gem of Chola architecture. Built over nearly three decades — first the main structure, then years of intricate carvings — the temple feels like a storybook in stone.
The complex has 108 exquisitely carved pillars, each telling a tale. Some depict the wedding of Shiva and Parvati, while eight unique ones feature mystical male and female beasts. Curiously, only one beast has an unlooped tail, found near the exit — a subtle detail that perhaps signified the path out of the temple.
The craftsmanship here is extraordinary. Many statues are carved in black stone, allowing for incredible detailing, right down to the fingernails. The guides say that if you close your eyes and run your fingers over them, the nails feel astonishingly real. The temple also carries traces of the everyday life of its builders — like small circles etched into the floor where oil lamps were once placed, their reflection in water puddles used to create light without overheating the lamps.
Behind the temple is one of its most striking sculptures — a panel showing Shiva settling the famous debate between Brahma and Vishnu. As legend goes, Brahma and Vishnu once argued over who was supreme. To test them, Shiva transformed into a boundless pillar of light and asked each to find its beginning or end. Vishnu, as a boar, burrowed deep into the earth but found no end; he returned humbled, admitting defeat. Brahma, as a swan, claimed he had reached the top, offering a flower as false proof. Shiva, angered by the lie, cursed Brahma so he would have few temples in his name — indeed, the only major one today is at Pushkar. Vishnu, rewarded for his honesty, continues to be worshipped far and wide. Standing before this carving, the story felt alive, etched not just in stone but in time.
The temple also hides one of the earliest examples of an optical illusion in art: a carving that appears to be both a bull and an elephant, depending on how you look at it. A small reminder of how Chola artisans blended devotion with playful genius.
From there, we moved on to a lesser-known temple, modest in appearance but with a tale that reaches back to the Mahabharata. It is said that here, on Krishna’s request, Ganesha tied the bowstring of Arjuna’s bow before the great war. The temple tank is shaped like a bow, and outside the main shrine stands a smaller stone carving of Ganesha tying the string. Though the temple is poorly maintained and under shabby renovation, the mythology wrapped around it gave the place an unpolished but memorable charm.
By early afternoon, it was time to turn back. We chose the Salem route for a smoother drive, though the stretch from Krishnagiri onward tested our patience with traffic jams. After nearly 8–9 hours on the road, we finally reached Bangalore around 8 pm, tired but carrying with us three days’ worth of temples, stories, and memories that stitched the Chola dynasty’s grandeur into our own little journey.
Highlights
- ✅ The stories, carvings at Airavatesvara temple
- ✅ The historic story and temple with Ganesh stringing & bending a bow
- ❌ Traffic post Krishnagiri and near Bengaluru
Photos
The beautiful Airavatesvara temple from the outside
The beautiful Airavatesvara temple from the outside
Carvings outside the temple
Lakshmi idol in black stone with finer details like bichia (toe rings). nails and a clearly visible neck thread that was worn by married women
Murugan, Ganesh's brother. In south, he is bachelor and Ganesh is married while in North India it is assumed to be opposite
The story depiction with Shiva settling the debate. Bhrama as a Boar at the bttom and Vishnu as a swan at the top left
A temple well in the open compound
The optical illusion where the left part of the picture with head is bull and the right is elephant
More carvings in Airavatesvara temple
A Praying temple inside Airavatesvara temple
Lunch pit stop - A2B near Salem
Old artifact collection at IndEco resort
Temple tank that is known to be bent by Ganesha as the tale goes
Accommodation
Indeco
A unique blend between traditional and modern. Equipped with history, essential comforts and yet taking an approach of more traditional setting by evolving villages into a modern day resort generating local employment and livlihood on multiple fronts
Places to Eat
📍 Adyar Ananda Bhavan - A2B, Thulakanoor village Attur, Salem Tamil Nadu
A pit stop near Salem with A2B and bunch of other options for food. Food all around was just average. But if you are looking for choices this might be an option
Additional Considerations
Get a guide at Airavatesvara temple to hear interesting stories. It costed us INR 400 for an hour or so. It was totally worth it